Animal encounters
A wildlife encounter may be just the mind and body break you need. Ute Junker shares the awe and power of connecting with nature’s majestic beasts.
GO ON SAFARI
in the Masai Mara, Kenya
It’s no surprise that the elephant is so big. That’s what elephants are known for, after all. No, what is really striking about this mighty animal, standing a metre or so away from our safari vehicle and looming high above it, is how it impacts on all your senses: There is the ripping sound as its trunk effortlessly tears up some grass by the roots; the warm air that gusts across you as it flaps its great ears; the dusty, musty aroma that you breathe in and that, we soon realise, is the smell of wild elephant.
Until now, I had no idea that elephants have a distinctive smell. But there’s nothing like a safari experience to up your animal IQ. And when it comes to safari, few places can match Kenya’s Masai Mara. Thanks to the Mara’s combination of rolling plains and verdant bush, there are countless opportunities to see a huge range of wild animals in their natural habitat.
We see giraffes grazing on the canopies of acacia trees, hippos cooling off in the river, young antelopes suckling at their mothers’ bellies. That’s just the start. We also see large groups of zebras, elegant cranes, slouching hyenas. Then there are the adorable youngsters, such as the litter of warthog pups trotting after their parent, whose tail – held ramrod straight in the air – functions as an unmistakable follow-me call.
Among the most thrilling encounters are our close-up experiences of the big cats, all muscled feline grace: leopards prowling along a rocky slope, cheetahs sheltering in the long grass, a pride of lions sprawled out together, adults dozing while the youngsters play lazily with each other.
One of the things I enjoy most is the sense of anticipation at the start of a game drive.
You know you are going to see something memorable; you just never know what. As you drive through the early morning light, or into the lengthening afternoon shadows, you relax into an alert but mellow state. There might be an astonishing animal hiding behind that tussock over there – or there might not. Your senses are engaged, listening for animal calls, scanning the mid-distance for signs of movement, savouring the simple pleasure of the breeze playing across your face. It’s a surprisingly blissful way to be.
HOW TO DO IT Bench Africa offers a three-day stay at the Mara Sarova Tented Camp, from $1,885 per person twin share, including twice-daily game drives. See benchafrica.com.au
A GORILLA ENCOUNTER
in Rwanda
Half an hour can be a long time in the jungle, especially when you are scrabbling your way uphill. Branches slap your face, tree roots try to trip you up, thorny vines try to pierce your clothing. Imagine how much worse it would be if we didn’t have our porters cutting a path in front of us with their machetes.
This is the reality of gorilla trekking in Rwanda’s Virunga Mountains – but anyone who has done it will tell you that it is well worth the effort. The mountains are home to 11 separate gorilla families, which constantly move through the jungle, seeking fresh food. Local trackers keep an eye on their movements, but you can still expect to have a bit of a hike before you encounter these great apes.
For our group, it’s 30 minutes before we meet our gorillas. We are moving single file and I am near the front of the line, so I’m one of the first to see the dark shape in the bushes that turns out to be two young gorillas curled together, having a nap. Moving on into the clearing, we’re suddenly surrounded by gorillas – a mother grooming her baby, two youngsters playing with each other, some more mature adults methodically stripping the skin off bamboo to get at the fresh shoots that are their preferred food.
I freeze for a moment, startled by the nearness of these creatures: some of them are just two or three metres away. Accustomed to being visited by groups of humans, none of them are perturbed by our presence. Most of them check us out briefly before returning to whatever they were doing.
The younger gorillas, just like teenagers everywhere, are daredevils, and test themselves by repeatedly edging towards us. We’ve been briefed about what to do if this happens. Direct contact is a no-no, given the potential dangers for both apes and humans. As they get close, we make the gorilla warning call that we’ve been taught, and the youngsters back off – only to try again a few minutes later.
The gorillas have clearly settled in for the morning, so we join them on the forest floor, watching as they feed and play. At one point, the silverback lumbers past on all fours, his back imposingly broad, his arms terrifyingly strong. He heads straight for a patch of thick vines and starts rummaging around for more food. I breathe a sigh of relief that he has completely ignored me.
Most endearing of all are the babies, nestled securely in their mothers’ arms. They are delightfully curious, craning their necks to catch a glimpse of us before pulling their heads back in when they catch us looking back.
There’s a soft groan of disappointment when our guide tells us it’s time to leave. Visitors are limited to an hour with the gorillas, to minimise the impact on the animals. Let me tell you – an hour in the jungle can simply fly by.
HOW TO DO IT A stay at Bisate Lodge in the Virunga Mountains starts at US$1,575 per person per night twin share. Gorilla trekking permits cost US$1,500 per person. For more details, go to classicsafaricompany.com.au
SWIM WITH DOLPHINS in Western Australia
It’s a little deflating to realise that we humans aren’t the most interesting species on earth. We’re so accustomed to being at the centre of things that, when wild animals ignore us – as they often do, once they have ascertained that we pose no threat – it can be a bit of a blow to the ego.
That doesn’t happen with dolphins. Few wild animals take as much joy in interacting with humans as dolphins do. In some locations, such as Rockingham outside Perth, Western Australia, they actively seek out the opportunity to swim with humans, clearly taking as much joy in the experience as we do.
To swim with some of the 200-plus bottlenose dolphins that live in the waters surrounding Rockingham, you’ll need to sign up for a tour. As the boat heads out into the bay, you’ll get a briefing in how to use your snorkel. Don’t be nervous about swimming in deep water. You’ll have a belt around your waist connecting you to your tour leader, so there’s no chance that you’ll drift off.
Because these are wild dolphins, there is no predicting how your encounter will turn out. The creatures may be feeling playful, in which case you’ll see them cavorting nearby. They may be hunting, in which case you’ll be stunned by how fast they can move.
Or they may be having a chat. Yes, really. Dolphins are surprisingly vocal creatures – they whistle and squeak, click and bark. When a bunch of them are vocalising at once, it’s an extraordinary chorus of sound. Scientists say these noisy confabs are generally a sign that a group of dolphins is making a communal decision: for instance, whether it’s time to go and chase some fish.
Being in the water this close to these endearing creatures is an exhilarating experience. The good news is that you’ll generally have several opportunities to hang out in the water near these mammals. There’s no doubt that they enjoy the interaction. In fact, as you head back to the shore, they may even accompany the boat for a while, porpoising alongside as if to bid you farewell.
HOW TO DO IT Perth Wildlife Encounters offers swimming with dolphins encounters at Rockingham Bay, with transfers available from Perth. From $225 per person departing Perth. See dolphins.com.au
WITNESS A TURTLE HATCHING in Queensland
If you have ever swum near a turtle as it moves effortlessly through water, changing direction or picking up speed with a barely noticeable flick of a flipper, you will have observed that turtles are loners. Many marine creatures seek safety in numbers, from shoaling fish to pods of seals, but turtles travel solo, each one following its own path through the vast oceans of our planet.
This applies from the moment they are born. As soon as they push their way out of their sandy nest, turtle hatchlings are programmed to head for the water and strike out on their own. Witnessing this irresistible drive, a thing stronger than reason, larger than thought, is a remarkable illustration of the survival instinct.
If you want to experience this for yourself, be aware that it may involve a little waiting. While hatching season is clearly defined – in Queensland, it takes place between January and March – and hatching always takes place at night, there is no predicting exactly what time the hatchlings will emerge. It may be shortly after nightfall; it may be after midnight. Such are the rhythms of nature.
Volunteers patrol the beach at Mon Repos, near Bundaberg, looking for movement. When they see that things are underway, you will be led to where the action is. Bright lights are banned, as they can confuse the turtles. As your eyes adjust to the darkness, things become clearer.
At first, you may just notice a small movement: a single tiny flipper poking up out of the sand here, then a head emerging there. But turtles are good layers, some depositing up to 200 eggs in a nest, and it doesn’t take long before large numbers of tiny turtles are cascading out of the nest, erupting from the sand with a force that seems extraordinary for such a tiny creature.
Follow them as they head towards the water and you’ll be amazed by their speed. The tiny flippers move as if battery-operated, propelling the hatchlings forward, towards the surging water. Instinctively, they know that they need to move fast, if they want to survive.
The harsh reality is that most of these adorable creatures will meet an early end. Their soft shells make them tempting meals for predatory species, including sea birds, crabs and fish. It’s estimated that only one in 1,000 will reach maturity. Their best bet is to find a bed of soft seaweed, where they can find both shelter and food. Seeing these tiny creatures throwing themselves towards their uncertain future fills you with a sense of how fragile life is, and how we should cherish it wherever we find it.
HOW TO DO IT Mon Repos, in Queensland, supports the largest concentration of nesting marine turtles in eastern Australia. Ranger-led turtle encounters take place at the Mon Repos Turtle Centre from November to March (nesting November to January; hatching January to March). Prices start at $27 for adults, $14 for children. Bookings essential. See bundabergregion.org/ turtles/mon-repos-turtle-encounter