Vive la différence

Learn to navigate French wine labels and you’ll unlock secrets that go more than soil deep.

THE WINES of France can be a mystery, as few are labelled by their grape variety. You need some insider knowledge to decipher, say, the hierarchical growths of Bordeaux’s Médoc and the terms “premier” and “grand” of other appellations. But strip back the clutter and you’ll find the majority of French wines are made with grape varieties that are the cornerstone of our domestic wines.

Unlike Australia, however, where we grow any grape in any region, the wine laws of France dictate mandatory grape varieties, with no room for innovation or experimentation.

The French appellation system (as these laws are known) acknowledges the synergy between a specific site and a single grape variety or complementary group of varieties. This synergy is at the heart of the concept of terroir – that indefinable word that links soil, site, climate and aspect with history and human endeavour. Terroir essentially acknowledges the cultural importance of wine to the French. Here’s a short cut to France’s major grape varieties and their home soils.

↑ 2015 Domaine Pichot Coteau de la Biche Vouvray Sec Loire Valley, $30 Australian chenin blanc can be insipid but it shines in the Loire Valley and this wine from Domaine Pichot is a fine example. It’s citrus-fresh, lean and tight, with subtly spiced...