Old-Timers

In the world of watches, what’s old is new again. These 2017 releases combine modern technology with classic appeal. By Bani McSpedden.

The latest luxury watches are a blast from the past

YOU’D BE forgiven for thinking that the latest timepieces have taken a step back in time. In the face of competition from smart, connected watches, it seems an industry once eager to capture the spirit of the future is now looking to the past.

Is this fashion or a lack of vision? Probably a bit of both. But it’s not the first time that manufacturers have turned to history for inspiration and, in this climate, it’s understandable. The export of new watches from Switzerland – considered the barometer of the industry – has contracted by about 10 per cent since 2014, while interest in vintage pieces has grown worldwide, as evidenced by the shortage of early Omegas, Rolexes, TAG Heuers, Longines and Seikos, the prices of which dwarf their original RRPs. Early Rolex “Submariners”, for example, once a few hundred dollars brand new, now fetch about $10,000 or more if the box and papers are intact.

Then there’s the look; contemporary watches tend to be bold and flashy, whereas older styles are refined, restrained, rakish. Perhaps that explains why Tudor’s “Heritage Black Bay” collection – a mashup of the brand’s early dive watches – is its most successful launch of late, appealing to a new generation of watch-lovers.

Here’s a selection of 2017 models that offer a vintage feel with the benefit of modern internals and water resistance – in other words, the best of both worlds.