Alonissos, Sporades

Far from the madding crowds of the Cyclades, green and lovely Alonissos is typical of the lush northern Sporades archipelago, where only four of the 24 islands are permanently settled. Small, friendly and relatively remote, life here revolves around simple pleasures. Days are idled away on the beach or wandering the woods of the interior; nights are spent in tavernas getting to know the locals over ouzo and tsipouro.

Stay

Conveniently located in Patitiri town, balconied and shuttered Ikion Eco Boutique Hotel (ikion.com) captures sweeping outlooks from its elevated position between the port and Roussoum Gialos beach. Its 12 rooms (including four family suites) are stylish and modern. All have balconies with sea or village views. Breakfast is an impressive spread of mostly housemade Greek treats.

Eat and drink

There is little pretension to Alonissos’s dining scene, which consists mostly of ouzeri and traditional tavernas such as To Kamaki in Patitiri (near the National Bank; +30 2424 065245), where the stuffed squid, octopus saganaki and ouzo are often served with a side order of live Rebetika music – dancing optional. On the town beach at Patitiri, Archipelagos (+30 2424 065031) is popular for sunset happy hour and snacks. At pretty Leftos Gialos, Eleonas café and beach bar (eleonasalonissos.gr) has shore-side tables shaded by olive trees, just the spot for cake and an iced cappuccino or lunching on freshly caught Alonissos tuna and Mrs Eleni’s cheese pie.

Explore

Walking is the island’s most rewarding pursuit. Pack a picnic and water then set off through pine and oak woodlands to the north’s fragrant maquis. Many of the most alluring beaches, such as Kokkinokastro and Tsoukalia, have no facilities so self-sufficiency is key. But if you came to Alonissos to get away from it all, you’ll be happy as a clam here.