Soak up the atmosphere
Eat
Ekstedt (ekstedt.nu) is a Michelin-starred diner in Östermalm. Helmed by famous Swedish chef (and renowned forager) Niklas Ekstedt, it serves New Nordic cuisine cooked over an open fire that crackles away inside the restaurant while you eat. In summer, one of my favourite places is the bustling terrace at Oaxen Slip bistro (oaxen.com), where you can enjoy delicious seafood (try the mussels cooked in white wine) by the waterfront with views over Beckholmen.
Drink
Whenever I’m in Stockholm, I end up at Tak (tak.se), a swish rooftop bar in the revamped Brunkebergstorg area, next to the excellent At Six hotel – partly for the sushi, partly for the cocktails but always for the view. For something a bit quieter, head to the courtyard at the Hallwyl Museum (hallwylskamuseet.se), a tranquil spot with a cool, Barcelona-meets-Stockholm vibe. There’s chilled music and you don’t have to visit the museum to enjoy a drink (open May to August).
Do
There are so many brilliant art galleries and museums in Stockholm but for Renoirs, Goyas and Rembrandts, I like the free Nationalmuseum (nationalmuseum.se). Located in the heart of town, the grand staircases, vaulted ceilings and gorgeous exhibition spaces alone are worth a visit. There’s no better place to immerse yourself in maritime history than at the Vasa Museum (vasamuseet.se), where a huge ship that lay on the sea floor for 333 years has been raised and restored. And don’t leave Stockholm without a trip to ABBA The Museum (abbathemuseum.com). This fun exhibition, dedicated to Sweden’s most famous pop act, showcases album covers, stage clothes and experiences (holograms and digital costumes, anyone?), which will have you singing and dancing all the way to the gift shop.
Stay
For Scandi interiors with a homey feel, I love Ett Hem (etthem.se), a 12-room hotel inside a renovated 1910 townhouse on the edge of Östermalm – it’s not in central Stockholm so be prepared for walking or Uber rides. If you’d rather go luxe, the waterfront Grand Hôtel (grandhotel.se) on Södra Blasieholmshamnen is my top choice: think gloved doormen, marble and gilt everywhere and the city’s best vegetarian eatery, Rutabaga, from celebrated chef Mathias Dahlgren.