In plain sight
These Australian islands are easier to get to than you think
A relaxing island retreat doesn’t have to be remote. Just like these seven spots, easily accessible from our coastal capitals, writes Tony Magnusson.
DANGAR ISLAND NSW
About 90 minutes north of Sydney, this car-free jewel sits between Long Island and Little Wobby on the Hawkesbury River and is home to only 300 residents. Leave the car at Brooklyn Wharf and board Sun, the ferry that operates daily, or book a water taxi. (Hawkesbury River railway station is close by if driving doesn’t appeal.) Bring eats and essentials, as there’s only a small general store on Dangar.
Happily, relative isolation doesn’t mean roughing it. The Dangar Island House (thedangarislandhouse.com) is an architect-designed three-bedroom, two-bathroom property set on a hillside among angophora trees, with views over the water to Little Wobby. The living/dining/ kitchen area has a wood heater and a table for 10, while outside, the deck with barbecue and seating for eight makes the most of the natural setting. There’s a smaller deck off the master bedroom downstairs.
Dangar Island Depot (2 Neotsfield Avenue; +61 2 9985 7541) serves breakfast and lunch every day, including eggs, granola, waffles, burgers, salads and excellent coffee, and it’s also the general store. At the Dangar Island Bowling Club (dangarislandbowlingclub.com. au), two minutes away, it’s all about fish and chips, salt and pepper squid and seriously good musicians (Dave Graney, Jeff Lang, et al) performing at its Sunday sessions.
Other than hiring a boat at Brooklyn and idling along the river, there’s not a lot to do – and that’s exactly the point. Wander beneath the blackbutt and rough-barked apple trees and listen to the prolific birdsong. Explore the Kiparra Park walking track through bushland with elevated views of the area, including Hawkesbury River railway bridge. This bewitching island escape inspires meditation, reading and long chats over wine.
BRUNY ISLAND Tasmania
Take one wooden hot tub, grab a glass of cool-climate wine and a plate of artisanal cheese, throw in achingly beautiful scenery and you’ve got the beginnings of a Bruny getaway. About an hour by car and ferry from Hobart, this 100-kilometre-long island is actually a pair – North and South Bruny – connected by an isthmus known as The Neck.
A 45-minute drive south of the ferry terminal on North Bruny, Hundred Acre Hideaway (hundredacrehideaway.com.au) on South Bruny comprises two self-catering eco retreats, each with a large hot tub made of western red cedar on a private deck with views to Cloudy Bay, Cape Bruny and the ocean. Both retreats are open-plan and include a queen-sized bed, complete kitchen, wood heater and outdoor fire pit.
Australia’s southernmost vineyard, Bruny Island Premium Wines (brunyislandwine.com) produces whites and reds that have amassed it some 30 medals over the years. Set yourself up by the open fire and graze on a platter of Bruny smoked salmon, game meat and pork rillette. Nick Haddow founded Bruny Island Cheese Co. on North Bruny (brunyislandcheese.com.au) in 2003 and his tradition-meets-innovation approach has made it a runaway success. Don’t leave without sampling Oen, a soft cheese washed in pinot noir and wrapped in vine leaves.
For the chance to see orcas, humpbacks, southern right whales and dolphins, book a Bruny Island Cruise with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys (pennicottjourneys.com.au). Departing daily from Adventure Bay on South Bruny, the three-hour trip also takes in The Friars, a rocky outcrop popular with Australian fur seals.
RAYMOND ISLAND Victoria
About 300 kilometres east of Melbourne, Raymond Island lies just off the coast of Paynesville, Victoria’s boating capital, in East Gippsland. Comprising low-lying bushland, coastal scrub and pebbly beaches, the 761-hectare island has a small residential population and is also home to 250 koalas. With no premium accommodation on the island, your best option is to check in to a one-, two- or threebedroom apartment at Captains Cove in Paynesville (captainscove.com.au). Each of the modern stays has a full kitchen, an outdoor deck with barbecue and a private jetty.
From here it’s a six-minute walk to The Esplanade and the Raymond Island ferry, which departs every 20 minutes or so. Pack a picnic lunch as there are no shops, cafés or restaurants on the island. Once there, explore the 1.2-kilometre Koala Trail on foot or hire a bike – it’s easy to clock one or more of the furry residents dozing in the trees. Kangaroos, echidnas, wombats and birdlife (140 species) are also in abundance. Back on the mainland, discover the region’s lakes and waterways by hiring a fishing boat (no licence required) from Bulls Cruisers (bullscruisers.com.au) and heading for Ocean Grange, which gives access to Ninety Mile Beach.
Gippsland is a gourmand’s paradise and Sardine Eatery + Bar in Paynesville (sardineeaterybar.com) is one of the best, thanks to owner/chef Mark Briggs’ (ex Vue de Monde) winning way with seafood. Yes, sardines (from nearby Lakes Entrance) are offered and they might come with smoked tomato and sage, while a roasted fish fillet could be served with smokehouse bacon, surf clams and beach herbs. The area also boasts more than 60 wineries, such as Lightfoot & Sons (lightfootwines.com.au) and Tambo (tambowine.com.au).
MELVILLE ISLAND Northern Territory
Part of the Tiwi Islands, Melville is Australia’s second-largest island, sitting 80 kilometres north of Darwin in the Arafura Sea. While fishing is the principal drawcard – they breed barra big out here – its waterways, coastal reefs and shoreline are also home to salty crocs, sea turtles, dugongs, dolphins and myriad waterbirds.
Clearwater Island Lodge (clearwaterislandlodge.com. au) sits on Apsley Strait, which separates Melville from Bathurst Island. Open all year round, Clearwater has 12 comfortable rooms with air conditioning and shared bathroom facilities, plus a plunge pool and spa – but really, you’re here for the deep-sea, reef, estuary and river fishing.
Naturally, the lodge’s restaurant is big on ocean bounty – you might dine on lobster, mud crab, oysters or even stingray as well as the “catch of the day” – but every palate is catered for. The all-day bar carries a fair selection of beer, wine and more than 100 spirits but nominate your preferred tipple when you book and they’ll have it waiting for you on arrival.
As well as monster barramundi, cast a line out for mangrove jack, golden snapper and threadfin salmon from one of the property’s seven purpose-built fishing boats. Conservation is front of mind at Clearwater, which adheres to a “catch and release” policy with the exception of what can be eaten for dinner. The lodge is fully integrated with its community – 90 per cent of staff are locals – and Indigenous cultural tours might see guests learning about the importance of ceremony, visiting burial grounds, meeting artists at Munupi Arts & Crafts (munupiart.com) and having a picnic lunch by a swimming hole.
ROTTNEST ISLAND Western Australia
Perth’s favourite daytrip is justifiably famous for numerous reasons, the #quokkaselfie being just one. Known as Wadjemup to traditional owners the Whadjuk Noongar people, this car-free limestone island – half an hour by ferry from Fremantle or 90 minutes from Perth – has 63 beaches and 20 bays, 45 kilometres of walking trails and temperate weather that’s warmer in winter (and cooler in summer) than the mainland from which it separated 7000 years ago.
Soak up the island’s beauty by taking the Gabbi Karniny Bidi walking trail (9.7 kilometres) from Thomson Bay for views of the salt lakes that comprise 10 per cent of Rottnest’s land mass. Or see migrating humpback whales between September and December and New Zealand fur seals and bottlenose dolphins year-round on the Ngank Wen Bidi walking track.
Capturing a relaxed, beach-shack vibe, the Island Couples Retreat (rottnestisland.com) is at the southern end of Longreach Bay, two kilometres from the main settlement at Thomson Bay. Each apartment has sea views from the living/dining area, a master bedroom and balcony and a barbecue in the courtyard. Familyfriendly Ocean View units, each with four, six or eight beds, are also available at Geordie Bay, Longreach Bay, Bathurst Point and Thomson Bay North.
Rottnest’s proximity to the spoils of the sea all but guarantees great food. The Lane Cafe (Somerville Mall, Thomson Bay; 0407 366 447) serves coffee by Perth’s Brew Coffee Roasters, plus housemade muffins, huevos rancheros and brekkie burgers. The seafood-focused menu at Thomsons (thomsonsrottnest.com.au) offers delights such as grilled Fremantle octopus with chorizo romesco and charred bread, while Pinky’s Beach Club (Strue Road, Pinky Beach; +61 8 6350 6170) is the venue of choice for your Rottnest Island Iced Tea sundowner.
KANGAROO ISLAND South Australia
Australia’s third-largest island – after Tasmania and Melville Island – is fast becoming one of our most popular getaways thanks to its sublime landscapes and a vibrant food and drinks scene. It’s also only a 30-minute flight from Adelaide.
Cactus (59 Dauncey Street, Kingscote; 0473 311 049) is big on island produce, with standouts such as KI lamb ragu fettuccine slow-cooked in Islander Estate shiraz served with local sheep’s cheese and wild olive oil. Sample some of the region’s top drops at Dudley Wines Cellar Door (dudleywines.com.au) as you take in the magnificent views of Cuttlefish Bay – the 2016 Hog Bay cabernet sauvignon is earthy and full-bodied. For something harder, Kangaroo Island Spirits Wild Gin (kispirits.com.au) is distilled with native juniper foraged on the island.
Sleep it off in luxury at Mistere (misterespaand retreat.com), an imposing lodge with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a chef’s kitchen, barbecue and gym. Twenty minutes from the airport at Kingscote, the island’s largest town, the property is set on 142 hectares of coastal farmland and enjoys views over Nepean Bay.
Almost one-third of the island is a national park or conservation area and home to majestic birdlife, sea critters and, you guessed it, kangaroos. Check out Raptor Domain (kangarooislandbirdsofprey.com.au), 40 minutes drive from Mistere, where you can pull on a glove and go eye to eye with a wedge-tailed eagle or barn owl. A tour of nearby Seal Bay reveals its colony of endangered Australian sea lions (sealbay.sa.gov.au).
MORETON ISLAND Queensland
About 75 minutes by ferry from Brisbane, Moreton Island is the world’s third-largest sand island and is 98 per cent national park, with clear-as-glass waters and curious dolphins.
X House (tangalooma.com) is an open-plan hilltop holiday house with sunset-on-water views over Moreton Bay. There are three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a full kitchen, plus outdoor deck and barbecue. The property is managed by Tangalooma Island Resort and guests can access resort facilities or do their own thing.
Tangalooma’s Fire & Stone dining hub has a menu big on Sichuan cuisine, including spicy fortune fish (cooked with chilli oil and Sichuan peppercorns), as well as Moreton Bay bugs and mud crab. Although there is a bottle shop and convenience store, if you’re keen to make use of the X House’s swanky kitchen, bring supplies from the mainland.
Two families of wild bottlenose dolphins visit the resort each day at dusk and guests can view and feed the clever mammals – the program is run by resort rangers. Be sure to visit Cape Moreton Lighthouse, Queensland’s oldest, from where you might spot manta rays and dugongs, as well as humpback whales between June and October.