Spin the Bottle
Soak up the country hospitality in this historic jewel of South Australia’s remarkable Limestone Coast.
Make the most of a wine break in South Australia’s Coonawarra
A DRIVE along the arrow-straight Riddoch Highway, through plots of lush green vines anchored in terra rossa soil, ofers a fleeting preview of Coonawarra’s high-end cellar doors – from historic Wynns and Redman to Bowen, Balnaves and Brand’s Laira. Much more than a pleasing vista, that rich, red soil blown in from central Australia imbues Coonawarra’s famous cabernet with its blackcurrant flavours and hallmark minty character.
On an old seabed with layers of sedimentary limestone, the remote region has a marine climate; brisk breezes of the Southern Ocean push harvest several weeks later than warmer areas such as McLaren Vale and the Barossa, encouraging intense varietal flavours. Yet Coonawarra’s relative isolation (it’s about four hours drive from Adelaide and five hours from Melbourne) only adds to its attraction: cellar doors are uncrowded and prices are reasonable.
Fly into Mount Gambier, an easy one-hour drive away, and if you’re in town on the last Friday of the month, pop in to the Coonawarra Hall for the Community Club Tea Night. There’s a bar – or you can bring a bottle and pay corkage – and the $15 steak and chips comes with help-yourself salads. Settle down at a communal table with the locals and, quite possibly, the person who made the wine you’re sipping.
Wander the centre of Penola, the area’s largest town, for beautiful sandstone buildings and country charm. Saint Mary MacKillop’s legacy beckons or perhaps the stories of historic Petticoat Lane, with original cottages from colonial days. At the National Trust Herb Garden you can choose from baskets of local produce and leave your donation in the honesty box provided.
In addition to stellar food and wine, there’s a thriving arts scene and a calendar of wine-focused events, including April’s vintage festival Coonawarra After Dark and October’s Cabernet Celebrations.