TIONG BAHRU

Murals by local artist Yip Yew Chong colour the backstreets of this charming neighbourhood, which is comprised of three-storey Art Deco buildings and is Singapore’s first public housing estate. But the hipster enclave is also renowned for food that spans fine dining, French bakeries and one of the city’s best hawker centres.

The hidden diner

Bincho (bincho.com.sg) is a 70-year-old kopitiam (traditional coffee shop) that sells mee pok (Chinese noodles) by day. At night, the front door closes and a secret back door opens to reveal the eatery’s after-dark persona: an intimate yakitori joint. Entry is through the copper-clad bar, where an impressive list of craft cocktails, Japanese beer and sake awaits.

The best bak kut teh

International politicians and actors from Crazy Rich Asians have all pulled up a red plastic chair to slurp peppery Teochew-style bak kut teh (pork rib soup) at Old Tiong Bahru

Bak Kut Teh (58 Seng Poh Road; +65 6223 3075). Make like a local and order a side of youtiao (deep-fried dough sticks) to dip.

The island’s finest croissants

Finding a table at Tiong Bahru Bakery (tiongbahru bakery.com) can be a feat, such is the popularity of the flagship outlet of the chain by French celebrity baker Gontran Cherrier. One taste of the sublime croissants – or the signature kouign amann, a “butter cake” from Brittany – and you’ll know why.

The best hawker centre

At the heart of any neighbourhood in Singapore is its hawker centre and Tiong Bahru Market and Food Centre (30 Seng Poh Road) may well be the island’s finest. Check out the fishmongers, egg sellers and florists offering brightly coloured orchids on the ground floor before taking the escalator to the food court upstairs. Some stalls here date back to the 1950s. For the best eats, join the longest queue.

The bibliophile’s delight

With a bookvending machine and retro Singapore bric-a-brac for sale in the back room, BooksActually (booksactuallyshop.com) redefines “independent bookstore”. The store’s founder, Kenny Leck, is also a champion of Singaporean writers via his publishing house, Math Paper Press.