Beauty: Genetic skincare

Lee Tulloch delves deep into her DNA to trial the new frontier of personalised beauty.

I’m having my skin analysed at a clinic in Sydney but the beautician isn’t examining my face under a light or magnifying glass. She’s swabbing my cheek for DNA.

Virtually everything in our beauty regimen, from cosmetics to fragrance and even shampoo, has been customised but bespoke skincare is going next-level. The latest innovation is genetic analysis and brands are creating skincare formulations that are tailored in ways never before possible. While we’re all born with unique genetic make-up, there is now the potential to influence our genes. By uncovering our natural individual weaknesses, we can potentially mitigate the damage caused by external factors (such as sunlight and pollution) using products that address those specific vulnerabilities.

I’m test-driving Rationale’s DNA Personal Prescription (rationale.com), which analyses genetic markers to identify categories at risk, such as immune response, photo (light) defence and collagen protection. An Australian brand with a cult following, Rationale incorporates biotechnology with native botanicals in a daily routine of six “essential” products. The result of this weeks-long process will be a jar of cream unlike any other, created just for me.

Before the DNA sample is taken, I fill out a form which asks questions – what colour are my father’s eyes? – to establish a basic blueprint. A special cotton bud is used to swab inside my cheek and I feel a little like a criminal. Perhaps I am? I certainly fail to use sunscreen every day.

Next, I sit in a device known as the Visia diagnostic tool, a machine that takes eight images of my skin, measuring hydration, inflammation levels and UV and light damage. The photos are horrifying, especially the UV spot image in which my face resembles an abstract painting.

At my second appointment two weeks later I receive the results and am given a mini-facial – probably to relax me after hearing such depressing news. I have below-average scores in acute inflammation, dermal sensitivity, production of key antioxidants, photo defence and collagen protection. Thankfully, I’m “normal” for other markers, including the ability to repair damage from free radicals such as pollution. Still, it sounds bad. My therapist chirpily tells me that most people have similar results.

A few weeks later, round three involves a 90-minute Rationale DNA Sequence Facial, followed by Healite LED light therapy and the soothing CryoGenic Facial.

The whole process, plus prescription, costs $1275. My personalised cream is filled with ingredients formulated precisely to counteract my genetic deficiencies – the jar even has my name on it. As personalisation goes, this is cutting-edge.