THE ISLAND RETREAT

Sicily

The biggest island in the Mediterranean and, if you ask the proud locals, a country unto itself, Sicily rises from the sea like a rugged vision – and a portal to the past. Made charmingly chaotic by a history of Roman, Greek, Norman and Moorish rule, culture crams into every space. Spend a morning marvelling at the ruined Doric temples of once-glorious Agrigento before taking an evening passeggiata (stroll) around the Baroque architecture of the World Heritage-listed city of Noto. There’s time to explore Renaissance art in Syracuse in between.

The island also puts its stories on its plate. The ubiquitous pasta alla Norma with its piquant sauce of tomato, eggplant, salty ricotta and capers is a tribute to Vincenzo Bellini, local composer of the opera Norma. Seafood, best eaten in port towns such as Cefalù, is cooked using recipes that have evolved over millennia. Legend has it that Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, planted the first vines on the north-eastern coast at Giardini Naxos. But as Leece says, “The entire island is a wine tour.” The intense, dry maritime climate nurtures nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most famous grape, which originated near Syracuse. “Think of it as being like a McLaren Vale shiraz," says Leece, "with the same fruit weight and sweetness.” Known for its nutty bouquet, full-bodied white varietal inzolia has hints of lemon, yellow apples and tarragon. All road trips must lead to the still-active Mount Etna, around which volcanic soil creates perfect conditions for grillo. “This is the flinty, saline and seafood-friendly white varietal currently taking the world by storm.”