Qantas

Mauna Lani

- Faith Campbell [STORY BY]

“Leave your stuff out here on the water, the ocean can take it,” says Hawaiian elder Uncle George, wearing boardies and dark sunglasses and balanced on the front of a 12-person canoe. As the sun rises between volcanic peaks Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, everyone on board shakes their hands over the sapphire sea, giving their worries to the waves.

At Mauna Lani (hotel.qantas.com.au/ maunalania­uberge), on the island of Hawaii (the Big Island to most), a 45-minute flight from Honolulu, this kind of connection – “cultural practice that’s been done for generation­s,” says George – is as essential as Piña Coladas and palm trees.

Uncle Danny Akaka worked on the hotel’s constructi­on in the early 1980s and held various roles before being appointed cultural director. “Hawaii is a healing island and this,” he says, arms open wide, “we call this wahi pana, a celebrated place.”

It shows, too. In the babymooner­s holed up in a private halau (cabana) facing the sea, grandparen­ts leading little ones around the breakfast buffet or asking questions at the marine biologist-led turtle talk, big kids showing off for new friends and sun-seekers lounging by the adults pool.

The Pacific Ocean breeze cools tiki-chic open-air common areas – including all-day eatery HãLani and the laid-back Hā Bar and Grill pavilion – and drifts into the 334 coastal-vibe rooms and suites from balconies that look out to the horizon, tropical gardens or the mountains.

At golden hour, sandy feet are rinsed and stand-up paddleboar­ds packed away as festoon lights flicker on and tiki torches are lit. Sun-weary grown-ups wander to CanoeHouse for high-end HawaiianJa­panese dishes, kids conk out tableside at HãLani while their parents catch up, Mai Tais are poured and the waves take any last worries out to sea.

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