CRU BAR + CELLAR
The words “wine list” don’t do justice to the enormity and energy of the wines available at Cru Bar + Cellar (crubar.com) in Brisbane’s epicentre of fine eating and drinking, James Street in Fortitude Valley. And, in fact, it’s not just one drinks list – it’s three. A single A3-page list of by-theglass options, beers and cocktails. Then a full Coravin list – about 80 in total, including champagne – supplemented with detailed tasting notes grouped into subheadings that make for quality reading and include variations as granular as soil types in Sancerre.
And that’s before you even reach the bottle list, where there’s a staggering 1800, give or take. “It’s a mix of the cool, the quirky and the classic,” says judge Toni Paterson. “Quite simply, this is a magnificent place to drink wine.”
One person couldn’t manage a wine cellar of this breadth – Tetris-ing this list together takes a team and that’s led by retail and cellar manager Chris Walker, who’s been at Cru for 10 years and overseen the list for the past eight. The offering, he says, is a balancing act of wines that he believes will resonate with customers, “things we’re excited about or want to try” and “some unicorns” or rare wines, which he says never last long.
For Walker, naming a favourite is impossible but a close examination of the list reveals a few clear leanings – there’s a generous collection of rieslings, both Antipodean and European. “The wine team and I love riesling and, yes, we dedicate way too much space in the cellar and wine list to it but who cares?” he says with a laugh. “It’s capable of being made into so many styles, plus it ages brilliantly. From the wonderfully pure expressions made in Australia, right through to the captivating wines being produced in Germany, which to me are some of the greatest and most thought-provoking wines on the planet.”
He also dedicates solid chunks of his paper real estate to Queensland’s Granite Belt wines, which sometimes struggle to break through with sommeliers beyond the bounds of the Sunshine State. “There are some cracking wines coming out of Queensland. It’s the Mediterranean varieties that truly shine: zippy vermentino or medium-bodied tempranillo. They’re food-friendly wines that are so well-suited to our climate.”
It’s not just the Queensland drops that work well with food. If you’re pulling up a seat underneath the antique Baccarat chandelier at Cru, augment whatever’s in your glass with a little something from the kitchen, led by executive chef Richard Ousby. You might try the pork dumplings with sweet hot sauce alongside a glass of 2012 Gosset Grand Millésime Brut Champagne or a simple plate of Mount Zero olives with a Delgado Zuoleta “La Goya” Mazanilla Sherry. Dip in however you like, says judge Paterson, but accept that you’re likely going to need several trips to even begin to make a dent in this masterpiece. “It’s the ultimate destination wine bar. You need to go.”
Cru Bar + Cellar is also the winner of Best Wine Bar List, Best Champagne List and the Judy Hirst Award for the sommelier/manager responsible for the winning list, Chris Walker Finalists Bennelong
Sydney, NSW / bennelong.com.au Cutler & Co.
Fitzroy, Victoria / cutlerandco.com.au
With a focus on local – and three different lists to choose from – this Fortitude Valley favourite transcends expectations to offer a wine for every tastebud.
1 Brunello, Canberra
The tapas-style dishes served at this new CBD venue (brunello.com.au) are almost a distraction from the main player: the glorious, infinitely gluggable wine list – particularly the by-the-glass selection that’s served under both Coravin and Enomatic systems so you can try drops that may never have come into your orbit otherwise. “The opportunity to taste anything from a 2016 Penfolds Grange to a 2014 Roberto Voerzio Barolo and some lovelies from Savaterre, Josef Chromy, Mac Forbes and other Aussies closer to home awaits,” says judge Jeni Port. “It’s a welcome addition to the exciting Canberra food and wine scene.”
2 Bennelong, Sydney
If you had to present a restaurant to the world as a symbol of Australia, Bennelong (bennelong.com.au) would make a strong case: its postcard location, those magnificent Opera House sails, Peter Gilmore and Rob Cockerill’s plated treasures from earth and sea – and then the wines. Predominantly Australian, the curation here is a rhapsody to our growers and producers. “Castagna, Cullen, Metala. And the showcase of Hunter Valley producers makes it a must-visit,” says Port. “So much thought and attention to supporting quality makers.”
3 Bella Venezia Restaurant + Bar, Mooloolaba
Dive into the generous by-the-glass list – 50 at least, with several vegan and organic surprises among them – at this longstanding establishment (bellavenezia. com.au). This dynamic compilation changes regularly, as the team sources new bottles at auction, so it’s worth returning. The new- versus old-world wine flights are a clever way to start your exploration and they’re designed to work beautifully with the kitchen’s heritage Italian menu.
Confidence is what stands out on every page of Cutler & Co.’s extraordinary wine list (cutlerandco.com.au), where selections are based on true merit, not trends. “Winelovers go here to enjoy and indulge but also to learn about what they should be drinking,” says judge Toni Paterson. They also head to this refined diner to surrender to the generosity of Andrew McConnell’s splendid Euro-style feasts, particularly the famous Sunday lunches (see his story on Pantelleria, Sicily, on page 92).
5 Fishbank, Adelaide
“This is a joyous wine list and a great credit to sommelier Henry Bampton, who’s obviously had a lot of fun drawing together his favourite South Australian wines along with the best of the rest of Australia and across the vinous globe,” says judge Peter Bourne. And just because Fishbank (fishbankadl.com.au) is a seafood restaurant, don’t expect wall-to-wall white wine; Bampton wants you to get into some rich red with your fish if you’re up for the challenge. An adventurous, sometimes kooky list that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
6 Fico, Hobart
Tasmania by way of Europe is the grand idea behind this small, heartfelt restaurant in Hobart’s CBD (ficofico.net) and the menu and wine list work together harmoniously to tell this story. Sommelier Ben Devereux’s extensive offering is described by judge Bourne as “wonderfully idiosyncratic”, grouped by weight and texture with a focus on the Apple Isle and Europe. The close attention given to food matching is plain to see on the page, particularly with the tasting menu pairings. “Devereux knows both his wine and his food.”
7 Shorehouse, Swanbourne
“The best of the west,” says judge Port of the selection at this breezy beachside diner (shorehouse.com.au) but that’s only the start. Sure, there are the chardonnays and cabernets you’d expect in WA but the lesser-known local rieslings, pinot noirs and chenin blancs are worth exploring, too. Then it goes even further west to sparklings from Austria and Germany and a huge trove of Italian, Spanish and French reds and whites.