Cocktails and oysters, handmade pasta and a world-class $14 pho. When they’re not on the pans, here’s where Australia’s top chefs like to pull up a seat.

2022-10-01 - KYLIE KWONG

Lucky Kwong, Eveleigh, NSW

“The name Paski Vineria

Popolare (paski.com.au)

– ‘a small wine bar and restaurant for the people’ – says it all and Giorgio de Maria, Enrico Tomelleri and Mattia Dicati’s buzzing, eccentric, detail- and produce-driven little gem in Darlinghurst, Sydney, is just that. It has a cosy, casual vibe and rustic fit-out, an extensive and idiosyncratic wine selection based on rich relationships with some of Italy’s most talented natural winemakers, and a delicious menu of handmade pastas, house charcuterie and seafood dishes. Paski oozes Italian warmth, generosity, conviviality and passion.”

PETER GILMORE

Quay and Bennelong, Sydney, NSW

“My current favourite is Ante Bar (ante.bar) in Sydney’s Newtown. It’s a new space with cool Tokyo vibes and a great sake list. My favourite dish is the fermented shiitake pasta – major umami.”

ANTHONY SCHIFILLITI

Sixpenny, Stanmore, NSW

“The food at Newtown’s

Cafe Paci (cafepaci.com.au) in Sydney, is tasty, innovative and fun – with service to match. There are not many restaurants that are suitable for every occasion but this place is an exception. Whether I’m on a date with my partner or with a group of hospo friends, I always have a great time. Also, there’s cool bar seating if you just want to go for snacks and drinks.”

OSKAR ROSSI

Fico, Hobart, Tasmania

“The best meal I’ve had recently was in Sydney at

Cafe Paci. I love the eclectic mix of cultures and inspiration in the menu. I’d go back for the ox tongue taco, duck torta salata or the carrot sorbet with licorice and yoghurt but everything on the menu is great, the service is excellent and the vibe is fun.”

JOSH NILAND

Saint Peter, Paddington, NSW

“What’s so special about Lucky

Kwong (luckykwong.com.au) and what has always been so special about the food Kylie

Kwong and her team cooks is that it’s truly unique and a mirror of where we are in the world. The food is outstanding and the level of hospitality is exceedingly special. I always order fried eggs with Lucky Kwong chilli sauce and the wonderfully comforting and nourishing yellowfin tuna pancakes. It’s an absolute favourite of mine, my wife, Julie, and our kids.”

ALEX WONG

Lana, Sydney, NSW

“A long Sunday lunch at Ormeggio at The Spit (ormeggio.com.au) in Mosman on Sydney’s lower North Shore is unbeatable when you want a slice of Italy. The use of premium Australian seafood sets the cuisine apart and when you combine that with outstanding service and an idyllic waterfront location, you really do feel like you’re dining at a Mediterranean beachside osteria. I try to get there a few times a year and every time I return it feels like a new experience as the chefs are constantly innovating but one of their classics – squid ink tagliolini with handpicked Queensland spanner crab

– is always top of my list. If you’re there with a group, I recommend ordering all the housemade gelatos – they’re theatrical and thoroughly impressive.”

ORAZIO D’ELIA

Da Orazio, Bondi, NSW

“I love going to Lucio Pizzeria (luciopizzeria.com.au) in Sydney’s Darlinghurst and Zetland. Lucio [De Falco] is a long-time friend of mine from my hometown in Italy. Every time I taste his pizza it reminds me of home. The pizza fritta is the best; I always order it.”

DAN PEPPERELL

Pellegrino 2000 and Bistrot 916, Surry Hills and Potts Point, NSW

“My favourite dining experience is sitting outside in the courtyard of Di Stasio

Pizzeria (distasio.com.au) in Melbourne’s Carlton, surrounded by the sound of the Italian stone fountain running and the crunching of gravel as the waiters walk between the tables. Ice-cold Martinis, melanzane fritte, the best spaghetti vongole with cracked black pepper and margherita pizza served with a side of fresh basil leaves and a little silver swan filled with chilli oil... It’s a secret paradise piazza.”

BRENT SAVAGE

Bentley Group, Sydney, NSW

“My favourite local eatery is

Barzaari (barzaari.com.au) in Sydney’s Marrickville. The chef, Darryl Martin, is a great

cook. He has his own unique approach to Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern food. Everything is made in-house, the meats are woodfired or cooked over charcoal and the vegetarian offerings are fantastic, too. It’s a familyrun restaurant and you can feel it in the generosity of their hospitality.”

PAUL FARAG

Aalia, Sydney, NSW

“When it comes to drinks, I love anything by Sydney’s

Bentley Group (thebentley. com.au) for wines, as sommelier Nick Hildebrandt has some of the most interesting and unique bottles available. As for cocktails, Tio’s (tios.com.au) in Surry Hills holds a special place in my heart. Jeremy [Blackmore], Alex [Dowd] and their team make some of the best Margaritas and provide a fun and approachable atmosphere.”

O TAMA CAREY Lankan Filling Station, Darlinghurst, NSW

“Ester has been at the forefront of the Sydney dining scene for years now, with dishes and flavours that feel both new yet classic at the same time. The food is deeply satisfying, the flavours delicate yet complex, plated in simple yet pretty ways. The oysters with horseradish emulsion are cooked in the wood fire until they just pop open – they’re a little warm, plump and perfect.”

YEN TRINH AND BEN DEVLIN

Pipit, Pottsville, NSW

“In Brunswick Heads, northern NSW, Honour (honourbrunswickheads.com) is a small bistro and wine bar run by a husband and wife team, chef Anna [Mortimer] and sommelier Aymeric [Albores]. Order the lemon-roasted spatchcock with almond sauce if you can; they’re also expanding their housemade retail side so stock up for home with tasty terrines and more.

“At Robina on the Gold Coast, Eddy + Wolff (eddyandwolff.com.au) has modern Vietnamese and Asian eats with great cocktails and an epic R’n’B soundtrack. Run by Vien and Thao [Nguyen], it’s the kind of place that feels like it should be in a big city laneway but is a great hidden gem in a suburban location. The banh xeo is super crisp and authentic and possibly the best we’ve had in any restaurant for a long time.”

JUSTIN JAMES

Restaurant Botanic, Adelaide, SA

“In May I had the privilege to eat and stay at Brae (braerestaurant.com) in Birregurra, Victoria, and the experience was on point – from the drive there to walking through the front door of the restaurant to leaving my accommodation the next day. The whole idea of it is inspiring: growing as much as you can, creating a total hospitality experience that lasts 18 hours. The food comes out beautifully plated and is absolutely delicious – you can taste the garden throughout the experience. Service is personal, swift and deft. I opted for a hybrid pairing and the non-alcoholic drinks were fantastic and went so well with the food. As for the room, I felt at home. They had my favourite record by The Strokes so I played that over a bottle of wine and snacks. Warm croissants were delivered in the morning before I hit the road back to Adelaide.”

TIM HARDY

“My all-time favourite restaurant is Dan Hunter’s Brae. The excellence, hospitality and integrity that goes into every detail makes this humble farmhouse a truly magical dining experience. It’s an inspired place.”

NINO ZOCCALI

The Restaurant Pendolino, Sydney, NSW

“Half of my Italian family actually live in France so while we’re in Italy a lot, we’ve also spent quite a lot of time in France and I just love it there. Provincial French cooking is one of my favourites and when done well, I think it delivers the kind of satiation that few cuisines can. For classic French bistro food, Bistrot 916 (bistrot916.com) in Sydney’s Potts Point is as good as anywhere I’ve eaten in France; the guys are doing such a great job.”

KHANH NGUYEN

Sunda and Aru, Melbourne, Vic

“My favourite place to eat now has been my favourite for a number of years: LuMi

Dining (lumidining.com) in Pyrmont, Sydney. Chef and owner Federico Zanellato is a true inspiration; his cuisine – Italian with a strong influence of Japanese sensibilities, techniques and flavours – is a marriage I’ve always loved. My favourite has to be the snacks course, which is usually six to eight different bite-size dishes, all unique and inspiring in their own way. Top of the list is the gunkan – traditionally sushi rice wrapped in nori with a topping. Federico uses Italian stracciatella and tops it with sea urchin when in season. It’s genius.”

ANDREW McCONNELL

Trader House group, Melbourne, Vic

“There’s something special about travelling to the countryside for lunch, particularly a wine region.

Tedesca Osteria (tedesca. com.au) in Red Hill, Victoria, ticks so many boxes; delicious food, a great wine list and beautiful design. The menu is hyper-seasonal and always delivers what’s growing in the garden or what’s available from the local growers and fishermen. I love the set menu, which is Italianleaning and well-balanced. There’s usually a pasta dish, which is always perfect, and Brigitte’s [Hafner] desserts are a highlight.”

DAN HUNTER

Brae, Birregurra, Vic

“I’ve had one meal at

La Cachette (cachette.com.au), about an hour away in Geelong, since it opened and I’m really looking forward to getting back soon. It’s a family business, doing something honest and with intent; a simple neo-bistro but in no way basic. The kitchen’s focus on flavour and product, along with the generous hospitality, made a real impression on me.”

HUGH ALLEN

Vue de Monde, Melbourne, Vic

“If I look at my hometown, Melbourne, I have a couple of must-visit places. First,

Aru (aru.net.au) is a really cool little restaurant cooking Australian-meets-South-EastAsian food; the chef Khanh Nguyen is über-talented and the dishes are flavour bombs.

O.My (omyrestaurant.com.au), out in Beaconsfield, is run by two brothers who grow most of the food themselves and it offers everything: amazing food, wine and service.”

SHANNON MARTINEZ

Smith & Daughters, Collingwood, Vic

“My quest for the best yum cha in Victoria has taken me everywhere. But my all-time favourite would have to be Secret Kitchen (secret-kitchen.com.au) in Doncaster. It may seem like an odd place to go, as it’s on the top floor of a Westfield shopping centre, but I can assure you – as can the large families that frequent the restaurant – this place is legit. You’ll have to book in advance on the weekends when it’s at its peak but you can generally sneak your way in on a weekday. The usual suspects are on the carts but they’re done better than almost anywhere else. Take a closer look and you’ll find some extra-special items that you won’t find at most other yum cha restaurants – braised hotpots and fresh, hot silken tofu. It’s too hard to choose a favourite so get a group together and order everything.”

VICTOR LIONG

Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne, Vic

“Flower Drum is a very important restaurant in Australia’s dining scene; it’s refined, traditional and authentic – in the sense of delivering excellent Cantonese cuisine and staying true to its food philosophy – and it has been operating at the highest standard for almost 50 years. The Lui family’s service team, wine offering and cooking style show Australians that Chinese food is one of the great cuisines of the world.

I bring friends from overseas, celebrate there with family and often go to learn and experience its magic. I’d like it to be around for my children to enjoy – it’s a very special place.”

JESSI SINGH Daughter in Law, Melbourne, Vic

“My current favourite restaurant in the world is

Ciao, Mate! (ciaomate.com.au) in Bangalow, NSW. This beautiful little Italian joint makes one of the best sourdough pizzas and chef Matt Stone personally sources local ingredients. He is so committed to supporting local farmers, local markets and native ingredients – particularly after the recent floods and lockdowns when these small operators need so much help to survive. Whenever I go I feel like I’m somewhere in Napoli; it’s a very cosy space and I sit at the bar to watch the action. Matt does daily special pasta or small plates but my all-time favourite is the margherita pizza. There’s also amazing Italian wine, like the beautiful natural orange wine Radikon Sivi from Oslavia.”

BRIGITTE HAFNER

Osteria Tedesca, Red Hill, Vic

“The Tedesca team had the pleasure of dining at

Chauncy (chauncy.com.au) last summer. We loved the generous hospitality and care, from the dining room to the wine list and menu. Chauncy is a beautiful country restaurant in Heathcote, Victoria, set in a historic building brought back to life in a sensitive and stylish way in partnership with Jasper Hill winery. The whole experience feels personal and special and the set menu is based on local produce carefully sourced and prepared with some serious classic French cooking chops. The wine list has all the local stars and benchmarks from far and wide. Overall, we couldn’t fault a thing that Tess [Murray] and Louis [Naepels] have achieved and I can’t wait for another visit.”

DANIEL JARRETT

The Tamarind, Maleny, Queensland

“For chefs, finding time to dine out can be a challenge so when we do have a gap, family comes first. I prefer to support local chefs who have amazing attention to detail and source the freshest local produce – to the point of meeting the fishers at the wharf to hand-select the catch for that night’s menu or taking to the rod and reel themselves. Giles Hohnen, chef/owner of Sumi Open

Kitchen (sumiopenkitchen. com.au), a humble place down an unassuming arcade in Noosa Junction, is pedantic about fresh ingredients – some from his own garden – and authentic Japanese technique that you can only learn from living and working in Japan for many years. There’s a four- or six-course ‘trust the chef’ set menu that can change daily and if you love sake, there are pairing options. A favourite from past visits is pork jowl with nori-roasted carrot, carrot and ginger purée, nashi pear and roasted sesame. There’s a cracking beverage list – for me, it’s the Yebisu black beer or McHenry Hohnen cabernet.”

ADAM WOLFERS

Gerard’s Bistro, Fortitude Valley, Qld

“Exhibition Restaurant

(exhibitionrestaurant.com) is a new place by local chef

Tim Scott. It’s located underground in the heritage-listed Metro Arts building in Brisbane’s CBD. Tim’s focus is cooking fresh produce on charcoal to create punchy yet delicate flavours and he sources produce from Queensland’s best biodynamic and sustainable farms. It’s a 24-seater and you have the option to sit in the dining room or at the kitchen bar, where you can observe the chefs in poetic motion, preparing and plating the food. I love the set menus and having the chefs deliver the dishes to your table with a detailed explanation. It’s a unique and exciting experience.”

SARAH BALDWIN

Joy, Brisbane, Qld

“I walk to Petrichor & Co (petrichorandco.com) in Brisbane’s Hamilton on the mornings I have off and sit at the sunny tables out the front with my dogs. The two owners know me and my dogs by name and like to tease me about always ordering the same thing! The service is friendly, warm and exactly how service in our industry should be: naturally hospitable. The food has a Colombian influence, which is so nice and different at breakfast time.”

MARTIN BOUCHIER

Phat Mango, Darwin, NT

“There are hundreds of places I like to eat at but my latest favourite is Arkhé (arkhe.com.au) in Adelaide. A fellow chef recommended the eatery, run by Jake Kellie, and it didn’t disappoint. Beautiful produce, cooked on coals, awesomely presented with a smile by the busy front-of-house staff. It’s everything I try and do

at my place in the Top End and exactly what I love about great restaurants.”

MICHAEL D’ADAMO

Wildflower, Perth, WA

“I’d love to get over to Melbourne and Sydney and go on a little food safari as it’s been about five years since I’ve visited. I’d be superexcited to eat at Oncore by

Clare Smyth (crownsydney. com.au) in Sydney right now. I never got the opportunity to eat Clare’s food while living in London when she opened Core but I’m a fan of her style and approach.

“At home, Mummucc’ (mummucc.com.au) in Wembley is my favourite place to eat. The no-fuss approach, bold flavours and delicious food are brought together so well by Matt McDonald, whether it’s something grilled on a skewer or a pasta dish. This is a classic casual spot with lots of locals, including myself, able to enjoy a good glass of wine and a few snacks.”

MELISSA PALINKAS

Young George and Ethos Deli + Dining Room, East Fremantle, WA

“My favourite place to eat in Perth would be a little, unassuming Vietnamese diner in Northbridge with plastic chairs and tables called Tra Vinh (149 Brisbane Street; 08 9228 2788). The food is so fresh and authentic; at lunchtime the place is always full. Across the road, Vincent (vincentwine.com.au) is a casual wine bar and bistro serving French-inspired food, like the amazing charcuterie board of jambon persillé, pâté en croûte, duck liver parfait and a pork rillettes that is honestly the best in Perth – besides my own, of course.”

MASSIMO MELE

Peppina, Hobart, Tas

“One of the constant rotations on my Instagram is Nomad (nomad.melbourne) in Melbourne and Sydney’s Surry Hills. I just love Jacqui’s [Challinor] food and her style of cooking. The care and effort taken and the great produce is really present in this restaurant, from making their own charcuterie to the woodfired flatbreads and delicious meats cooked over the fire – it all gets me very excited. I’m especially keen to try the truffle and ham hock hash brown.”

MATTHEW EVANS

Fat Pig Farm, Huon Valley, Tas

“In Sydney, it’s Sean’s (seansbondi.com) in Bondi. In Tassie, it’s Masaaki’s

Sushi (masaaki.com.au) in Geeveston. But if I could eat anywhere tonight, I’d dearly love to go to Ethos Deli + Dining

Room (ethosdeli.com.au) in East Fremantle, WA. Rarely does a restaurant’s fundamental morality – its ethos, if you like – come through in such a way that it speaks to my gluttony and my palate but also to my sense of right and wrong; to my soul. Melissa Palinkas’s bistro satisfies my hunger for ethical sourcing and no waste, as well as offering flavour in spades. It could be in the housemade smallgoods or Palinkas’s Hungarian heritage snuck into crab pierogi. That it operates until late in the evening from Thursday to Saturday is a bonus.”

RODNEY DUNN

The Agrarian Kitchen, New Norfolk, Tas

“Whenever I find myself in Hobart, the place I visit more

JACQUI CHALLINOR

Nomad, Sydney, NSW, and Melbourne, Vic

“My favourite restaurant at the moment is Gimlet (gimlet.melbourne) – I can’t go to Melbourne and not visit. You walk into that dining room and you can’t help but be wowed. The service is always on point, it’s professional with just that right level of familiarity, and they serve some of the best non-alcoholic drinks in town. Grab yourself a seat at the bar and order the tartare, which is prepared tableside. You won’t be sorry.”

HELLY RAICHURA

Enter Via Laundry, Carlton North, Vic

“On my day off, I love to head down to Cavendish House for drinks and a meal at Gimlet. It’s a place that transports you back in time. The hospitality is flawless, the décor is luxurious and the atmosphere is celebratory. My favourite has always been the Hazelnut Old Fashioned, which comes on and off the menu depending on the season. I really enjoy sitting under those beautiful chandeliers on soft velvet seats, with a glass of wine or a cocktail and a delicious meal.”

ALEKSIS KALNINS

Matilda 159 Domain, South Yarra, Vic

“My favourite place is Gimlet. What I find special about it is the late-night suppers on Friday and Saturday so I can go after service. Most Saturday nights I celebrate the end of the week with a cocktail, six oysters, some charcuterie and a plate of cheese.”

ALEX GHADDAB

Osteria Renata, Prahran, Vic

“No matter the time, day, week or month, I would never say no to a visit to Gimlet. To see the transformation of the site into the grand dining room it is today is a sight to behold. The food, beverage and hospitality offerings are outstanding and like everyone says, yes, it does feel like a Manhattan staple. I absolutely cannot go past a Martini or two, oysters, gnocco fritto and the T-bone. Stunning.”

BEN SHEWRY

Attica, Ripponlea, Vic

“Pho wasn’t something I grew up with in New Zealand but in Melbourne (and obviously Vietnam) it’s an essential dish and one that I feel the city takes ownership of in a passionate way.

“My children have grown up eating it weekly. Now, it’s very cool to hear my teenagers talk about meeting up with friends over a bowl of pho. Here we aren’t in short supply of good places to eat pho and in case we didn’t realise how lucky we are in Melbourne, I recall taking a pair of high-profile food friends to a pho shop in Springvale years ago, to which they exclaimed, ‘If this was in San Francisco, it would be the best bowl of noodle soup in town.’ That was just a bowl of walk-in pho from a shop I knew nothing about – a spur-of-the-moment pho, if you like. What that says is that this dish, pretty much no matter where you have it in Melbourne, is delicious, generous and nourishing. And we have Vietnamese immigrants to be grateful to and thankful for.

“My favourite bowl is the sliced beef and sausage noodle soup at Pho Hung

Vuong Saigon (128 Hopkins Street, Footscray; 03 9689 6002). This is where I take out-of-town visiting chefs and food-lovers. It’s the finest $14 to $17 you could spend on food in Melbourne. The broth is beautifully clean and clear with a deep beef flavour; the noodles are perfectly cooked; the garnishes are on point. But the spellbinder here is the thickly cut beef sausage, redolent with whole black peppercorns and of immense flavour. As a chef I appreciate the skill of the chefs here and the quality never varies. It’s the stuff of pho dreams.” than any other is Tom McHugo’s

(87 Macquarie Street; 03 6231 4916). It’s a pub but so much more – these guys walk the talk when it comes to local ingredients. I love the menu section that begins with the line, ‘Vegetables (not always vegetarian)’. It’s generally a what’s-what of in-season vegetables from local farmers smartly paired with complementary flavours; think broccoli with curry butter or grilled wombok with leek sauce and pickled garlic buds. These delights sit neatly alongside the prerequisite chicken schnitty and steak, which are always good. Wash all this down with an exciting list of local beers and natty wines

– little surprise that it’s such a hospo hangout.”

KOBI RUZICKA

Dier Makr, Hobart, Tas

“About two hours out of Hobart, The Waterloo (waterlooswansea.com) in Swansea gets my vote. It’s run by a young couple, who took over an old motel restaurant that was closed for years and stuck in a décor time warp. Settle in for crumbed and fried oysters and have a pint of Tassie tap beer or dig through the cellar to find some stunning hand-picked natural wines that you’ll genuinely only find in the best restaurants in the country. Zac [Green] and Alex [Sumner] took an enormous risk and we should all be very thankful they did.”