Scuba Diver Australasia + Ocean Planet
GALÁPAGOS
Flung out into the middle of the Pacific – off the coast of Ecuador – the Galápagos Islands are a beacon of life in an endless blue desert. Thousands of hammerheads school in the warm waters around Darwin Island; bus-sized whale sharks filter feed in the nutrient-dense deep ocean upwellings; penguins swim in the cooler waters to the south; and species found nowhere else thrive.
The celebration of the Galápagos’ unique environment both above and below the waves dates back to the days of Darwin. But even after nearly
200 years of love from biologists and divers alike, the Galápagos Islands’ survival as a meticulously maintained memorial to evolution remains uncertain.
DARWINIAN ORIGINS
It’s a real shame Darwin didn’t have some scuba gear to explore the Galápagos below the waves. Despite the lack in technology, the naturalist still recognised how extraordinary the underwater environment is. But it wasn’t until 1998 that Ecuador created the Galápagos Marine Reserve – more than 35 years after the creation of the terrestrial national park.
Casting a wide net of protection surrounding 64 kilometres of water around the islands’ coasts, the marine reserve walks a delicate balance between protecting the vulnerable ecosystem and managing the use of natural resources by local residents. While commercial fishing was banned, small-scale fishing remains legal.
With concerns of overfishing, the government has recently expanded no-take zones around the islands of Wolf and Darwin – local, artisanal fishing is now not allowed. Even with such steps, illegal shark fishing continues within the protected area and the government must remain vigilant against threats to the health of the marine ecosystem.
A BOUNTY OF LIFE
Three major current systems and over 900 kilometres from the mainland, underwater life in the Galápagos has found a way to survive against all odds. Flightless birds cruise underwater to eat. Iguanas have taken to the sea and evolved to forage underwater by holding their breath for up to 30 minutes. And once-tiny fish species have grown to an exhorbitant size because of the nutrient-rich water. Let’s hope the Galápagos’ underwater realm is as special 200 years from now as it was 200 years ago upon Darwin’s first sight.
MUST-SEE
THE BOILER – Perhaps the top dive site in the world, this current-cranked-up dive offers up the best the Galápagos has to offer: hammerhead sharks, whale sharks, green sea turtles, sea lions, and schooling fish. Hook into a massive boulder and watch the spectacle unfold as hundreds of hammerheads cruise overhead. The world’s largest fish – the whale shark – comes in bunches in the very same waters.
LANDSLIDE (WOLF ISLAND) – Another fantastic sight for seeing scalloped hammerheads, Landslide also delivers close-up encounters with eagle rays.
PUNTA VICENTE ROCA – Perhaps the most unique dive the Galápagos has to offer, Punta Vicente Roca is the best spot to see mola molas, manta rays, and tons of baitballs. Lucky divers will also see iguanas and penguins.