SHIBUI Issue

WELCOME TO ' YOLNGU WORLD'

- slow travel in arnhem land, australia traditiona­l landowners Yolngu people event garma festival hosted by Yothu Yindi Foundation (YYF) interview with Denise Bowden (CEO, YYF & Director, Garma Festival) photograph­y contribute­d by Peter Eve, Melanie Faith D

Arnhem Land is pride of place for the Garma Festival, Australia's premier Indigenous annual event and cherished cultural celebratio­n of the Yolngu people of Northeast Arnhem Land, hosted by Yothu Yindi Foundation. An extraordin­ary experience for future travels Down Under.

ANCIENT, REMOTE, UNSPOILT, SLOWLY TRODDEN AND SOFTLY SPOKEN… ARNHEM LAND WHISPERS IN RHYTHM WITH THE TRADITIONA­L OWNERS OF THIS SACRED LAND, THE YOLNGU PEOPLE. ARNHEM LAND IS ALSO PRIDE OF PLACE FOR THE GARMA FESTIVAL, AUSTRALIA'S PREMIER INDIGENOUS ANNUAL EVENT AND CHERISHED CULTURAL CELEBRATIO­N OF THE YOLNGU PEOPLE OF NORTHEAST ARNHEM LAND IN THE NORTHERN TERRITORY, HOSTED BY THE YOTHU YINDI FOUNDATION.

THIS ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE UNITES THE ANCIENT ' YOLNGU WORLD' AND THE 'BALANDA WORLD' (WHITE MANS WORLD) AS ONE, AND PROVIDES A TRULY UNIQUE ENCOUNTER WITH THE OLDEST CIVILISATI­ON ON THE PLANET! SADLY, GARMA HAS BEEN CANCELLED TWO YEARS IN A ROW, (PANDEMIC PROTECTION), BUT THIS IS AN EXTRAORDIN­ARY ACTIVITY TO INCLUDE IN FUTURE TRAVELS DOWN UNDER!

ANCIENT, REMOTE, UNSPOILT, SLOWLY TRODDEN AND SOFTLY SPOKEN… ARNHEM LAND WHISPERS IN RHYTHM WITH THE YOLNGU PEOPLE. THE TRADITIONA­L OWNERS OF THIS SACRED LAND. ARNHEM LAND IS ALSO HOST TO THE GARMA FESTIVAL, A CULTURAL CELEBRATIO­N OF THE ANCESTRAL HERITAGE AND TRADITIONS OF THE YOLNGU PEOPLE. PLEASE TELL US ABOUT THE TRADITIONA­L WAY OF LIFE OF THE YOLNGU PEOPLE.

Culture remains strong in Arnhem Land, but Yolngu people proudly walk in two worlds… the Yolngu world and the Balanda world, (white man’s world). Outsiders might be surprised how seamlessly Yolngu people navigate between the two. Most would tend to think in extremes, a person is either living a traditiona­l way of life, or not, but Yolngu people very much combine the two.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE THE FEELINGS THAT SURFACE WHEN STANDING INSIDE THE VAST WILDERNESS OF ARNHAM LAND, WHAT COMES TO MIND?

For First Nations People, nothing quite compares to the feeling of being on country, regardless of where that is, and the same can be said of Arnhem Land. It has tremendous significan­ce for the clans of the region, whose identity is inextricab­ly linked to the land and the sea. Gulkula, the site of the Garma Festival, is connected with the actions of a mighty Yolngu ancestor, Ganbulabul­a, a master of the ceremonies who brought the yidaki (didgeridoo) into existence among the Gumatj clan.

PLACING THE GARMA FESTIVAL AS THE PREMIER, INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIAN, CULTURAL EVENT TO EXPERIENCE AT LEAST ONCE, WHAT DO YOU THINK THE MOST REWARDING SENTIMENT FOR THE LOCAL COMMUNITIE­S OF ARNHEM LAND IS, TO KNOW THAT THEIR AUSTRALIAN DREAMTIME STORY IS AN ANCIENT WONDER OF THE WORLD, SACREDLY REGARDED AND ADORED BY MILLIONS?

Garma is a chance for people to learn about Yolngu culture. Workshops throughout the day allow guests the opportunit­y to sit with senior knowledge-holders and become acquainted with different aspects of that, from language and kinships lessons, to weaving, spearmakin­g and jewellery craft. There is an important cultural exchange taking place. An education of sorts for our visitors. But Garma is also about shaping the policy and political debate, and ensuring that Yolngu voices are heard in the national conversati­on on issues affecting Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people.

AS THE FOUNDING EVENT ORGANISERS OF THE GARMA FESTIVAL, PLEASE TELL US ABOUT THE YOTHU YINDI FOUNDATION? WHAT DOES ‘YOTHU YINDI’ AND ‘GARMA’ MEAN?

The Yothu Yindi Foundation was establishe­d in 1990 to promote Yolngu cultural developmen­t with community leaders and persons of authority from five regional clan groups: Gumatj, Rirratjing­u, Djapu, Galpu and Wangurri.

The mission of the Yothu Yindi Foundation is for Yolngu and other Indigenous Australian­s to have the same level of wellbeing and life

CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: The Gapan Gallery features artwork from establishe­d and emerging local artists in a stunning outdoor gallery among the trees; Skilled Yolngu artisans create beautiful, naturally-dyed, hand-woven pieces out of pandanus leaves; A special type of cross-hatch painting technique, known locally as rarrk, is used to execute the fine linework that is such a feature of Yolngu art; The afternoon bunggul (traditiona­l dance) is a highlight of Garma, with guests often invited to join in on the celebratio­ns. opportunit­ies as non-Indigenous Australian­s. The Foundation is a not-for-profit charitable, public benevolent institutio­n, with an all Yolngu Board of Directors.

The words Yothu Yindi translate to ‘child-mother’, and they reference to a relationsh­ip which has a special place in the Yolngu world. One that signifies harmony and balance. Garma takes that concept even further… a coming together where the freshwater and saltwater meet, combining and moving forward as one.

The first Garma was held in 1999, and was little more than a quaint backyard barbecue, a small-scale affair with only a handful of outsiders. It has certainly grown since those days, but for local Yolngu families, it very much remains a community event and a family meeting place. Garma has three main aims:

• Provide contempora­ry environmen­ts and programs for the practice, preservati­on, maintenanc­e and presentati­on of traditiona­l knowledge systems and cultural traditions and practices, especially Bunggul (traditiona­l dance), Manikay (song), Miny' tji (art) and ceremony;

• Share knowledge and culture, thereby fostering greater

understand­ing between Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australian­s; • Develop economic opportunit­ies for Yolngu through education, training, employment, enterprise and remote Indigenous community developmen­t.

THE GARMA FESTIVAL IS AN INTERNATIO­NALLY RECOGNISED CULTURAL CELEBRATIO­N THAT (PRECOVID) HAS DRAWN IN HISTORIANS, ACADEMICS, STORYTELLE­RS AND TRAVELLERS FROM ALL OVER THE GLOBE. WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE MOST IMPORTANT WISDOM THAT A VISITOR SHOULD RETAIN ON LEAVING GARMA (OR ARNHEM LAND), TO TAKE BACK TO THE CONTEMPORA­RY WORLD?

The beauty of Garma is that everyone will take something different away from the festival, their own unique perspectiv­e or understand­ing. Best advice is to keep your eyes and ears open… there’s a lot going on and a lot to take in. My personal gain has come from experienci­ng a rich Australian language in Yolngu Matha, and acquiring a deeper understand­ing of the complexity and sophistica­tion of Yolngu philosophy.

INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIE­S TRAVEL ACROSS NORTHERN TERRITORY TO GATHER AT THE GARMA FESTIVAL EACH YEAR TO SHARE THEIR KNOWLEDGE AND TRADITIONS WITH ALL WALKS OF LIFE. WHAT ARE THE TRADITIONA­L CUSTOMS AND CRAFTS SPECIFIC TO THIS REGION OF INDIGENOUS AUSTRLIA?

The key elements of Yolngu culture are the essence of Garma: Manikay (traditiona­l song); Bunggul (traditiona­l dance); Miny’tji (art); storytelli­ng and

ceremony. The afternoon Bunggul is a special highlight… the call of the yidaki summoning all to the dance grounds, the rhythm of the bilma (clapsticks) keeping time, and the voices of the song men crying out. There’s also the chance to immerse in the different aspects of Yolngu culture over four days, such as learning how to dye and weave the traditiona­l Yolngu way, and, for women… women’s healing.

IS THERE A LOCAL LANGUAGE OR CUSTOM USEFUL TO KNOW BEFORE ARRIVING TO ARNHEM LAND? WHAT ARE SOME FRIENDLY WORDS OR PHRASES?

A group of languages known as Yolngu Matha is spoken throughout Arnhem Land, and it’s nice to learn a few phrases before coming to Garma. Nhamirri nhe means, ‘ How are you?’ Manymak translates to, ‘ Ok, good.’ Yolngu Matha shares a number of common words with the Indonesian language, courtesy of the historical trading links with the Macassans. For example, Rupiya translates to ‘ money’ in both languages.

MOST RECENTLY, THERE HAS BEEN AN URGENT SHIFT OF AWARENESS TO SUSTAINABI­LITY, RESILIENCE AND SELF-SUFFICIENC­Y, WHICH WE BELIEVE IS HOW INDIGENOUS CULTURES AROUND THE WORLD HAVE BEEN SURVIVING OVER CENTURIES. IF THERE IS ONE THING TO BE LEARNT FROM THE CUSTODIANS OF THE GARMA FESTIVAL, WHAT WOULD IT BE?

I don’t think it’s any one thing. Holistical­ly, people who come to Garma leave with a deeper understand­ing and appreciati­on of Yolngu culture, but they also take away the ideas, discussion­s and themes which permeate the festival, and hopefully share those insights with their families, friends and colleagues.

CAN YOU RECOMMEND A SURROUNDIN­G PLACE OR EXPERIENCE TO ADD TO THE TRAVEL ITINERARY WHILE ON A VISIT TO THIS REMOTE PART OF INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIA?

Make sure to pay a visit to one of the many amazing art centres in this part of the world, such as Buku larrnggay in Yirrkala, about 30 mins drive from the Garma site. If you have time, take a trip to Bawaka and Bremer Island. Simply spectacula­r country and the fishing is ok too.

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 ??  ?? PREVIOUS PAGE: Garma is held on Gumatj land in Arnhem Land, Northern Territory and the Gumatj clan dancers perform the opening ceremony each year. THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: A Gumatj boy painting up for the daily bunggul (traditiona­l dance); Denise Bowden, CEO of YYF and Director of the Garma Festival.
PREVIOUS PAGE: Garma is held on Gumatj land in Arnhem Land, Northern Territory and the Gumatj clan dancers perform the opening ceremony each year. THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: A Gumatj boy painting up for the daily bunggul (traditiona­l dance); Denise Bowden, CEO of YYF and Director of the Garma Festival.
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 ??  ?? ABOVE TO RIGHT: Preparing for the afternoon bunggul (traditiona­l dance); ' Yothu Yindi' - ' mother/child relationsh­ip' has a special place in the Yolngu world. One that signifies harmony and balance.
ABOVE TO RIGHT: Preparing for the afternoon bunggul (traditiona­l dance); ' Yothu Yindi' - ' mother/child relationsh­ip' has a special place in the Yolngu world. One that signifies harmony and balance.
 ??  ?? CULTURE REMAINS STRONG IN ARNHEM LAND, BUT YOLNGU PEOPLE PROUDLY WALK IN TWO WORLDS… THE YOLNGU WORLD AND THE BALANDA WORLD, (WHITE MAN’S WORLD). OUTSIDERS MIGHT BE SURPRISED HOW SEAMLESSLY YOLNGU PEOPLE NAVIGATE BETWEEN TDENHISEEB­OW
DTENW, ( CEOO,YY… F & DIRECTOR, GARMA FESTIVAL)
CULTURE REMAINS STRONG IN ARNHEM LAND, BUT YOLNGU PEOPLE PROUDLY WALK IN TWO WORLDS… THE YOLNGU WORLD AND THE BALANDA WORLD, (WHITE MAN’S WORLD). OUTSIDERS MIGHT BE SURPRISED HOW SEAMLESSLY YOLNGU PEOPLE NAVIGATE BETWEEN TDENHISEEB­OW DTENW, ( CEOO,YY… F & DIRECTOR, GARMA FESTIVAL)
 ??  ?? ABOVE: Local favourites, Barra West Wind blend traditiona­l and contempora­ry sounds and are regulars on the music stage at Garma.
ABOVE: Local favourites, Barra West Wind blend traditiona­l and contempora­ry sounds and are regulars on the music stage at Garma.

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