Signature Luxury Travel & Style
THE DAWN OF BAKU
Modern and ancient worlds collide in this dazzling city by the waters of the Caspian Sea. Pamela Wright takes a trip and begins to unravel its mysteries.
It looked like a melted down, swirling version of the Sydney Opera House — or were my eyes deceiving me after a long flight? Whatever my headspace, the Heydar Aliyev Center was a knockout from every angle, and just one of many astounding architectural pieces in Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan found by the Caspian Sea. Designed by acclaimed British architect Zaha Hadid, the building takes centre stage as we drive along the busy main street. Already stunned by the new and exotic airport terminal with its concave glass walls leaning out from their bases and giant wooden interior ‘cocoons’ packed with cafés and kiosks, I realised I was in for an eye-opening few days.
A city in 'happening mode'
Despite being popular among Europeans, Baku is relatively unknown in America and Australia. “I’m going to Baku” (pronounced Barkoo) I'd say to friends. Ba who? Ba where? “In Azerbaijan.” Azerbai where?
Well, let me tell you. Baku is a modern, exquisite and historic city all wrapped into one. On the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, it has gained the name ‘Paris of the East’ and is now touted as the doorway to Europe.
The city has also been given the honour of hosting the first-ever European Games, drawing athletes from across the continent for high-level competition from 12 to 28 June 2015. The city has commissioned several new purpose-built stadiums, all to be delivered on schedule.
Drenched in oil and gas prosperity, oil and more oil has paid for undeniable affluence. With showstopping, modern architecture and a UNESCO-listed medieval old city at its centre, it’s a compelling mixture of both old and new.
Three glass ‘Dubai-style’ Flame Towers, shaped like mainsails, dominate the skyline and add to the city's potpourri of architectural feats, where impressive old buildings from Russia's Tsarist era stand not far from dreary Soviet blocks hurriedly being beautified. Indeed, everything is in happening mode.
Ancient history, European flair
Equally important to Baku’s appeal is its walled Inner City. Starting at the imposing Maiden Tower, we took in the Palace of the Shirvanshahs and other significant sites. With well over a kilometre of cobbled streets and alleyways to roam, I couldn’t resist buying one of the handwoven carpets displayed on wall after wall of limestone shop frontages. Carpets, urns, vases and all sorts of Azerbaijani wares are for sale, with not a cotton-pickin’ pushy salesman in sight. This intermingled with quaint tea houses and traditional restaurants, allowed for endless hours of cultural indulgence.
At night the city is beautifully lit and, in the Mediterranean climate, we strolled along the esplanade, through the old city to the Flame Towers. Finished in 2012 and pulsating with bright colours, the towers become giant display screens lit by 10,000 LED luminaires.
Turn around and find the new glass metro station, subtly lit in hues of pink and purple — Baku’s version of Le Louvre. Next door is the Philharmonic Hall, an ex-casino based on the one in Monte Carlo. No, it’s not a copy city, it simply borrows bits from France and Italy to add a European flair. We didn't have time to visit the swish restaurants and nightclubs, but if Sahil is anything to go by — they’re sophisticated and rocking.
Azerbaijan is around 90 per cent Muslim and a historically tolerant society. I saw some mosques and a few head scarves, but people mainly wear western clothing. In fact, fashion surges through the streets, with locals dressed to rival Parisienne models and designer labels found in recently erected galleries and malls.
I discovered a city full of historic beauty, remarkable architecture, great food and progressive people, all in just three days.