Signature Luxury Travel & Style
A VILLA IN BALI
The decadent villas of Alila, Villa Sungai and The Legian will see you want for nothing in this popular holiday haven.
There comes a time when you must forget the outside world and escape. But as the world grows smaller and what is authentic becomes more elusive, it’s easier said than done. That is why I have come to Villa Sungai, seeking restoration in the village of Cepak.
A villa of one’s own
I am spoiled from the very beginning. Thanks to Garuda Indonesia’s inflight visa service, I bypass the bedraggled customs line and am welcomed to the Island of the Gods with a wide smile from Made, the accomplished villa manager, who escorts me to the waiting vehicle. Cepak is just 20 minutes from bustling Seminyak, but further from it in spirit than most other Balinese resorts.
Sungai actually comprises two exclusive-use villas: the three-bedroom Villa Sungai, popular with groups of friends and families, and the twobedroom Sungai Gold, the perfect choice for honeymooners – and I have the great fortune to experience both.
Each showcases the impeccable taste of Australian owner, Pamela Hayes, using white on white to create a serene ambience that still leaves you strangely connected to the surrounding village life.
During my early-morning ablutions, I am reminded of the rural setting. In the distance, roosters are carrying on their daily conversation while below my 18-metre infinity pool, the Penet River winds lazily through the valley. I feel my body relaxing with every minute.
Already Sungai feels like home. Everything, from my meal and libations preferences, to spa treatments and yoga sessions, can be personalised. My butler, also Made, is able to arrange anything with a moment’s notice, and a driver is available at all hours of the day.
Quite frankly, though, I am happy to stay within the villa’s tuberose-scented confines, venturing out only to visit the nearby Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort, where Made assures us we will see a spectacular sunset. Sungai’s whitewashed teak furniture is set off by khaki accents and Philippe Starck’s Ghost chairs, standing sentinel-like by the pool, blurring the line between inside and out. My canopied bed is a picture of fairytale elegance, draped in white, and one of the rooms has been set up as a spa suite.
After an evening swim and an aperitif it is time to peruse the menu, prepared by local chef, Wayan Sukayadnya. Each night offers a parade of delights; crab and pomelo salad, barramundi with coconut sauce, lemongrass panna cotta. Indeed, I found his salmon betel bites and prawn thai lon so exquisite, we’ve shared the recipes on page 101.
Villa Sungai is the sort of escape guests return to year after year, longing to experience thoughtful luxury, intuitive service, the rural lifestyle (admittedly on a sumptuous scale) and the kind of indulgence that can only come by disconnecting from stress.
Perched above the ocean
In contrast, Alila Villas Uluwatu is big, bold and dramatic. Poised atop a massive limestone cliff on the Bukit Peninsula, I am greeted by one of the most beautiful views of an azure infinity pool and the Indian Ocean beyond. It seems almost close enough to touch, but I later find out it is more than 600 steep stairs (and an hour’s dedication) down to the sands of the private beach below.
The most recognisable feature of Alila is its cantilevered Sunset Cabana that acts as both a bar and wedding pavilion, suspended over the ocean and bound in wooden slats. They appear in miniature
in each of the 64 one-bedroom villas that climb into the hills, nestled at the end of the pool like Jenga blocks.
My environmentally sustainable villa is the essence of comfort and privacy. The interior is minimalist and my butler is on call. Indeed, before I even arrive he has been notified of my preferred music, bath ritual, bar essentials, reading material and pillows – and it is all set up the moment I arrive, down to Balinese
rindik music wafting from the speakers. I can even select how I interact with my butler, choosing from Alila’s three levels of service: private (for those who wish to be left to their own devices), discreet (for moderate needs) and indulgent (waited on hand and foot).
After an early-morning yoga session, I have the best of breakfasts – French toast with mango-blossom honey and vanilla sauce, tropical fruits and a banana, peach and strawberry smoothie – from there, a long Balinese massage with fragrant oils, before languishing by the infinity pool.
A haven in Seminyak The Legian is one of the finest hotels in Bali, and The Club at The Legian only fosters a more exclusive, all-villa atmosphere. Located right on Seminyak Beach, I am amazed how such privacy can be achieved in one of the island’s most popular destinations. Nothing beats this location. It provides the best shopping, dining, hip bars and nightlife in all of Bali – as well as elegant repose.
My Club villa is one of just 11, an oasis of traditional style executed with contemporary elegance, down to the sunken outdoor bath immersed in a reflecting pool. Polished woods, naturalfibre furniture and original artefacts from around the island capture the essence of modern Balinese design, while my butler is available for packing, unpacking and all my poolside whims.
The benefits of staying at The Club are many; return airport transfers, afternoon tea, cocktails and canapés, and a chauffeured drop-off and pickup service within Seminyak. The Club Lounge and pool are reserved for villa guests, but I also take advantage of The Legian’s renowned facilities, especially the beachfront bar and The Spa.
First, an Ancient Balinese massage at the expert hands of Budi, who stretched me and used pressure points to vanquish any lingering stress. Next day was a Himalayan Warm Stone massage, the heat deeply soothing my muscles. It was peaceful, relaxing and the perfect antidote to the world outside.