Signature Luxury Travel & Style
MEXICO Uncover the sophisticated boltholes that have the well-heeled returning year after year
Look beyond the sombreros, tequila and tacos, and travellers in search of the real Mexico will find a rich history, vibrant culture and stunning natural surrounds, as Joanna Tovia discovers.
The treasures of Mexico have long been known to well-heeled American travellers, but it’s only in the last few years that Australians have truly appreciated all its charms. Authentic cuisine alive with flavour, a fascinating archaeological history and extraordinary natural beauty, combined with some of the world’s finest luxury and boutique hotels, are just some of the reasons Mexico is on the radar of sophisticated jetsetters.
Peninsular perfection Whether you’re looking to recline on a beach with a margarita, snorkel endlessly blue cenotes or delve into ancient ruins in the jungle, the Yucatán Peninsula delivers the essence of a Mexican getaway. Once best known for gringo hotspot Cancún (to be avoided during Spring Break in early March), the gems of the region have extended to destinations of the Riviera Maya,
including Playa del Carmen and Tulum, as well as the Yucatán capital, Mérida.
The island of Cozumel is a 50-minute ferry ride from the port at Playa del Carmen. Hire a car or take a tour to San Gervasio, 15 kilometres from the main centre of San Miguel de Cozumel. San Gervasio was built in the ninth century and its temple served as a Mayan place of pilgrimage for generations. Cozumel is also home to a barrier reef system that rivals our own, and has excellent visibility, so plan to take at least one snorkelling tour to Palancar Reef and beyond during your stay. InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort & Spa offers modern beachfront accommodation, and can arrange snorkelling excursions for you.
Back on the mainland, discover why Rosewood Mayakoba at Playa del Carmen is one of the country’s most coveted sanctuaries, stretching between a white-sand beach and a mangrove-fringed lagoon. Its 129 suites and villas are the benchmark by which all other beach resorts are judged; with stunning stone and wood
construction, they blend contemporary style with Mayan traditions, while still being kind enough to the Earth to receive Rainforest Alliance Certification. Choose from ocean or lagoon views, and be sure to pay a visit to Sense, A Rosewood Spa, secluded on its own island, for a Mayan healing journey.
Further south towards Tulum, Hotel Esencia is an oasis on the sands of Xpuha, originally built as the private home of an Italian duchess. The aristocratic sensibility shines through in the midcentury furnishings and artworks, now polished with chic minimalism by new owner, entrepreneur and art collector, Kevin Wendle. This year sees another 11 suites added to the existing 29 rooms, as well as a new PeruvianJapanese beachfront restaurant.
Head inland to savour the rainbowhued delights of culturally rich Mérida. Wander through this picture-perfect town, camera in hand, to capture narrow cobbled streets, colourful Colonial architecture (the grand Paseo de Montejo main avenue was inspired by the Champs-Élysées), the cultural Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, and its festive but peaceful vibe.
Mérida prides itself on its cuisine and just about every corner reveals a new cantina, floored in vibrant patterned tiles. Forget tacos and fajitas, here you’ll be tempted with the likes of
kibis, fried wheat morsels filled with meat and cheese, tamales, stuffed cornbread steamed in banana leaves or corn husks, and champola, ice-cream with coconut milk, available everywhere from streetside stalls to restaurants such as Amaro, with its open-air dining terrace and 18th-century surrounds.
Chablé Resort & Spa is a half-hour drive from the old city. It was once a crumbling hacienda, but is now a beautiful rainforest retreat that’s a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The 38 spacious casitas each have a private pool and indoor/ outdoor bathroom, or spread out in one of two luxurious three-bedroom villas.
Mexico City and beyond
If you’re a fan of Frida Kahlo, a stop-off in Mexico City is essential. The Frida Kahlo Museum, located in her Blue House, reflects the artist’s distinctive aesthetic and personality admirably, while more of Kahlo’s works can be admired in Museo del Arte Moderno.
Mexico City’s coolest neighbourhood is Colonia Roma, where mansions have been turned into restaurants and bookshops. As for where to stay, located within a couple of blocks of the city’s central square is Downtown Hotel. This luxurious bohemian-chic hotel was once a 17th-century palace, and is full of charm and character.
From Mexico City, drive 3.5 hours into the central highlands to picturesque San Miguel de Allende to wander the town’s cobbled streets, snap photos of pastel-coloured streetscapes and Baroque Spanish architecture, and discover some of the best restaurants in the country (put Áperi, Zumo and The Restaurant on your list).
Stay at Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada, a grand heritage hotel set in a garden dotted with fountains. It’s the siesta to the city’s fiesta spirit, a complex of courtyards and terraces winding around stucco buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Los Cabos calling
Mexico’s white-sand beaches are some of the world’s most spectacular and, if you’re coming all this way, it’s worth setting aside some time to enjoy them. Between the well-known tourist cities of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas lies a sunny 30-kilometre strip of beachside resorts. Head and shoulders above the rest is the multiaward-winning Las Ventanas al Paraíso, a Rosewood resort. Hidden away in its own desert oasis, this outstanding resort has 84 exquisite suites and villas, each with an infinity pool overlooking the sea.
The spa features indoor-outdoor treatment rooms in a verdant setting and the dining options are exceptional. Private yacht charters are available from the resort (a fine way to visit The Arch rock formation at the tip of the Baja Peninsula), and take advantage of the resort’s curated excursions, golf outings and tailored culinary experiences on offer.