FRINGED OMBRE PONCHO
Use gorgeous gradient yarn to create a fun and oaty poncho top. Designed by Cécile Balladino.
YOU WILL NEED
Scheepjes Whirl (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 220g/1000m), 2 cakes of Lavenderlicious (758) These yarn quantities apply to all three sizes For measurements see table A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com
TENSION
1 square when blocked measures 13 ( 14: 15) cm or 5 ( 5 : 6) in square
ABBREVIATIONS
2-tr cluster (2-tr cl) (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same st/sp each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook
3-tr cluster (3-tr cl) As above, working () 3 times For a full list, see page 92 This relaxed, poncho-style top is made up of simple lacy squares. While the pattern itself is fairly straightforward, it’s the ombre colour effect and fancy tassels that make this project stand out from the crowd. It requires two cakes of Whirl yarn from Scheepjes, an acrylic and cotton blend with beautiful graduating shades. Take care to work your tassels in the right matching shades for the full effect.
NOTE
Work the front with the first cake of yarn and the back with the second one. You will join the squares as you go, stopping after the first 8 squares to make fringing for the armholes, to make sure that the colour in the gradient yarn matches the colour of the sleeves.
BASIC SQUARE PATTERN
Ch6, ss in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st), 16tr into ring, ss to top of first tr to join. [16 tr]
Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), (tr in next st, ch1) 15 times, ss in third ch of beg ch- 4. [16 tr, 16 ch-1 sps]
Round 3 (Ch2, 2-tr cl, ch3) in next ch-1 sp, (3-tr cl, ch3) in each rem ch-1 sp around, ss to top of first cluster. [16 clusters, 16 ch-3 sps]
Round 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), (tr, ch2, 2tr, ch4) in first ch-3 sp, (dc in next ch-sp, ch4) 3 times, *(2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch4) in next ch-sp, (dc in next ch-sp, ch4) 3 times; rep from * twice more, ss to top of beg ch-3. [16 side ch- 4 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps]
Round 5 Ss across and into first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), (tr, ch2, 2tr, ch4) in first ch-3 sp, (dc, ch4) in each side ch- 4 sp and (2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch4) in each corner ch-2 sp around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [20 side ch- 4 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps] The front and back are worked alike with 16 lacy squares apiece, joining as you go. Repeat Round 5 a further 1 ( 2: 3) times. [24 ( 28: 32) side ch- 4 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps]
Final round Work as Round 5, replacing each corner ch-2 with ch7. Fasten off.
FRONT AND BACK !MAKE 2"
Make 16 squares in the order numbered on the diagram. Join them as you go during the final round where shown, by replacing each side ch- 4 sp on the joining side with (ch2, ss in corresponding ch-sp of adjacent square, ch2), and each corner ch-7 sp with (ch3, ss in corresponding corner ch-sp of adjacent square, ch3). Do not join along the edges marked in red on the diagram. Note that squares 5 and 6 are only joined along half of the square edge to form the base of the neckline.
After joining the first 8 squares, make fringing for the armholes as follows: Cut 6 strands of yarn 30cm long, fold in half and put through every alternate ch- 4 sp along the armhole edges of the top two squares on each side. Secure by passing the ends of the strands through the folded loop.
Make sure you start the second cake of yarn when starting the second piece for the Front/Back. As you work the squares of the second piece, also join them to the squares of the first piece at the shoulders and side seams, leaving the top two squares on each side open for the armholes.
Once all the squares are complete, rejoin the yarn along the bottom edge and work (dc in next ch-sp, ch4) around, ss to first dc, Fasten off and weave in all ends.