CHEVRON SKIRT
Skirt the work and make this instead! By Susan Walsh
The chevrons and fringing on this skirt mean it’s made for movement – even the yarn is whirling! So strut your funky stuff at your kitchen disco, groove in your garden, or promenade at the park. You’ll feel so much better for it.
NOTES
Four Foundation Triangles of crochet are joined together in a chevron pattern. Chevron rounds are worked top-down in contrasting colours, with increasing stitch counts for a gentle A-line flare to the Skirt. The lower zigzag profile of the Skirt is straightened around the hemline by filling it in with triangles of crochet. The waist line is edged in htr then rounds are worked bottom-up, trapping a ring of elastic in the final round, so the waist band is easily adjusted to your desired fit. An Arrowhead Strip is made separately, edged with htr, and joined to the straightened hemline of the Skirt with a feature Ripple Seam. A strip of hairpin lace is made separately; one side is worked to create a textured braid with a looped fringe that is then edged in htr and joined to the Skirt with a feature Ripple Seam. Measurements on the schematic are after wet and steam blocking. Waist measure of Skirt is as laid flat just prior to inserting the elastic into the waistband, and is designed to sit below your actual waist, (so is larger than the ‘to fit’ measurement). If you prefer it to sit at your actual waist, consider making the smaller size. The exact fit is customised to you by the use of the elastic trapped in the waistband crochet. Turning-chs do not count as a st throughout pattern. Wet blocking AND steam blocking are essential to achieve the final A-line shape.
SKIRT
FOUNDATION TRIANGLE (MAKE 4) With Yarn A and 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, and starting loop on your hook, ch3, turn.
Row 1 (RS) 5tr in beg ch (skipped ch does not count as st), turn. [5 tr]
Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (does not count as a st throughout), 2tr in st at base of ch, tr, 5tr in next st (the third (central) of these 5 tr will be referred to as the ‘apex st’ for future rows as it is always the central st at the apex of the triangle), tr, 2tr in last tr, turn. [11 tr]
Row 3 Ch2, 2tr in st at base of ch, tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st (central of these is new apex st for next row worked), tr across to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [17 tr]
Rep prev row 1 (2: 2: 3: 3) times more, finishing with 23 (29: 29: 35: 35) tr, change colour to Yarn B in last yrh of last tr of the last row, turn.
Fasten off Yarn A with 15cm tail.
With Yarn B, work 4 (5: 5: 6: 6) rows more as Row 3, finishing with 47 (59: 59: 71: 71) tr, * fasten off 15cm tail, pm in active loop.
Make next Foundation Triangle (FT) to *, then with WS facing, work a ss to beg tr of final row of previous FT.
Fasten off.
Make a further 2 FTs in this way.
Once all 4 FTs are completed, remove marker from active loop of beg FT, ss to beg tr of final row of fourth FT to join all long sides of FTs into a loop for the waistline.
TOP-DOWN CHEVRON SKIRT ROUNDS With Yarn A and 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, Join New Yarn in ss just made (RS). Round 1 (RS) Tr2tog over next 2 tr, * tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr of FT, tr5tog over the last 2 tr of this FT, the ss join and first 2 tr of next FT; rep from * twice more, tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr of last FT, work a tr3tog over the last 2 tr and the ss at base of beg tr2tog to the last draw through, insert hook into top of beg
tr2tog, yrh, pull through all loops on hook, (beg tr2tog and end tr3tog count as a tr5tog st), turn.
[4 patt reps of (tr5tog, 47 (59: 59: 71: 71)tr)] Round 2 (WS) Ch2, tr in st at base of ch, *tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr before the tr5tog (that joins the FTs), tr3tog (over the next 2 tr and the tr5tog); rep from * twice more, tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr, Chevron Join, turn.
[4 patt reps of (tr3tog, 23 (29: 29: 35: 35) tr, 5tr at apex, 21 (27: 27: 33: 33) tr) - which is 200 (248: 248: 296: 296) sts]
Round 3 Ch2, tr in st at base of ch, * tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr before next tr3tog, tr3tog (over next 2 tr and the tr3tog); rep from * twice more, tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 2 tr, Chevron Join, turn.
[4 patt reps of tr3tog, 23 (29: 29: 35: 35) tr, 5tr at apex, 23 (29: 29: 35: 35) tr - which is [208 (256: 256: 304: 304) sts]
Rep prev Round 1 (2: 2: 3: 3) times more, finishing with 216 (272: 272: 328: 328) sts, change to Yarn B in last draw through of last Chevron Join.
Fasten off Yarn A with 15cm tail.
With Yarn B, work 4 (5: 5: 6: 6) more rounds as Round 3, finishing with 248 (312: 312: 376: 376) sts, change to Yarn A in last draw through of last Chevron Join.
Fasten off Yarn B with 15cm tail.
With Yarn A, work 4 (5: 5: 6: 6) more rounds as Round 3, finishing with 280 (352: 352: 424: 424) sts, change to Yarn B in last draw through of last Chevron Join.
Fasten off Yarn A with 15cm tail.
With Yarn B, work 4 (5: 5: 6: 6) more rounds as Round 3, finishing with 312 (392: 392: 472: 472) sts. Fasten off Yarn B after working the Chevron Join.
FILL-IN TRIANGLES (MAKE 4)
The first row of each Fill-in Triangle will be worked from apex st to apex st; by the time all 4 Fill-in Triangles are complete, each apex st will have been worked into twice.
With Yarn A and 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, Join New Yarn at RS any apex st of prev round.
Row 1 (RS) Make an extra ch1 (does not count as st), tr3tog, tr across to last 2 tr before next tr3tog, tr3tog, tr across to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. [73 (93: 93: 113: 113) sts]
Row 2 (WS) Ch2, tr3tog, tr across to last 2 tr before next tr3tog, tr3tog, tr across to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn.
[67 (87: 87: 107: 107) sts]
Rep prev Row 2 (3: 3: 4: 4) times more, finishing with 55 (69: 69: 83: 83) sts], change to Yarn B in last draw through of last st, turn.
With Yarn B, work 4 (5: 5: 6: 6) rows more as Row 2, finishing with 31 (39: 39: 47: 47) sts, change to Yarn A in last draw through of last st, turn.
Next row As Row 2, turn. [25 (33: 33: 41: 41) sts] Next row Ch2, tr3tog, tr across to last 2 tr before next tr3tog, tr5tog, tr across to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. [17 (25: 25: 33: 33) sts]
Rep prev row 1 (2: 2: 3: 3) times more, turn, finishing with 9 (9: 9: 9: 9) sts, turn.
Final row Ch2, 3tr3tog, fasten off. Repeat from Row 1, 3 times more to fill in rem triangles at hemline.
WAIST BAND
With Yarn C and 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, Join New Yarn at RS waistline in side of any ss between FTs.
Round 1 (RS) Htr around, working 1htr in each ss between FTs, and 2htr/tr row, (inserting hook under 2 lps of each post segment), ss to beg htr, turn. [132 (164: 164: 196: 196) htr]
Round 2 (WS) Ch1, dc flo around, ss to beg dc flo, turn. [132 (164: 164: 196: 196) dc flo]
Pm in active loop.
Cut elastic to desired waist measurement plus 1cm, then (ensuring the elastic is not twisted along its length) overlap the ends by 1cm and sew the elastic into a closed ring. Try the elastic ring around your middle to ensure you are happy with the fit.
Round 3 (RS) Ch1, dc into each Round 1 htr around, working over the top of each Round 2 dc and carrying elastic at the back of Round 2 sts within each st and ensuring elastic is not twisting, ss to beg dc.
Fasten off.
ARROWHEAD STRIP
With Yarn D and 3.25 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, leaving a 30cm beg tail, ch19, turn.
Row 1 (WS) Ch2, tr3tog (beg in third ch from hook), tr in next 6 ch, 5tr in next ch (central of these is ‘apex st’), tr in next 6 ch, tr3tog, turn. [19 sts]
Row 2 (RS) Ch2, tr3tog, tr across to apex st, 5tr in apex st, tr across to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. [19 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, changing to Yarn B in this ch, gently pull on Yarn D to tighten this ch, rem of row as Row 2 using Yarn B, turn. (This creates a neat colour change.)
Row 4 As Row 2, turn.
Row 5 Ch1, changing to Yarn D in this ch, gently pull on Yarn B to tighten this ch, rem of row as Row 2 using Yarn D, turn.
Cont in Arrowhead Strip pattern as described in prev 4 rows for 91 (115: 115: 139: 139) rows more, finishing with a Yarn B row.
Fasten off and use long beg Yarn D tail to sew tops of last row sts to foundation ch using a whip stitch technique (ensure Arrowhead Strip is not twisted).
JOIN ARROWHEAD STRIP TO SKIRT HEMLINE
With Yarn C, Join New Yarn at RS Arrowhead Strip in side of any end-row tr, htr around, working 2htr/tr row, (inserting hook under 2 lps of each post segment), ss to beg htr.
[192 (240: 240: 288: 288) htr]
The waistband is worked in rounds, but is turned after each round to create an effect
Enclose the waistband elastic into Round 3 stitches, taking care not to twist it
Waist width a: 34 (39: 43: 47: 51.5)cm,
13 (15 : 17: 18 : 20 )in
Length b: 52 (54: 61: 62: 69)cm, 20 (21 : 24: 24 : 27)in
Ch1 to change direction and continue to edge Skirt hemline:
Htr around Skirt hemline (inserting hook under 2 loops of each post segment), working 2htr/ row end in each fill-in triangle until you reach the final row of 3 tr3tog at the centre of the triangle. Work the next htr in the next row end as before, then htr3tog over the 3 tr3tog at the centre. Work a further 2htr in the row-end post of the next tr3tog, then resume 2htr/tr row. [48 (60: 60: 72: 72] sts per triangle]. At end of round, ss to beg htr. [192 (240: 240: 288: 288) sts]
Ch1 to change direction and continue to work feature Ripple Seam as follows: Holding WS of Skirt hemline and Arrowhead Strip tog, pair each st of Skirt hemline with a corresponding st from Arrowhead Strip. (Ss, ch1) in each paired flo around (the middle of the three htr loops, so an unworked loop remains at both the RS and the WS of the garment).
Fasten off, use tail to neaten the join as necessary.
HAIRPIN LACE STRIP
You will make an asymmetric strip of hairpin lace with a dc spine that is offset to one side, so the longer loops will hang freely as the Skirt fringe, and the shorter loops will be crocheted further to form a textured braid. This braid will then be edged and Ripple Seamed to the lower edge of the Arrowhead Strip. Before you begin, secure contrast yarn string lines along each pin of the loom, so when you remove the strip from the loom, the contrast yarn keeps all the yarn ends aligned. For more help with hairpin lace please turn to the walkthrough on page 89.
For a heavier fringe, work double stranded. This can be useful if you’re a tight crocheter, as the Hairpin Strip will naturally have more stretch than using one strand for the same number of stitches. Remember that you may need more than the stated quantity of yarn for this option.
Set up the hairpin loom to a width of 10cm. With Yarn E, tie your starting loop so the starting knot sits 2cm from one of the pins.
Work 1dc inserting hook under the front left strand of each hairpin loop, maintaining the asymmetric position of the spine, until you have 192 (240: 240: 288: 288) loops on each side of the hairpin loom, do not fasten off. Pm around one of the loom pins every 20 loops to count as you go.
[384 (480: 480: 576: 576) dc sts along the spine]
Ch4 (to reach height of short loops), pm in active loop. Remove Hairpin Strip from loom, and interlock all the short loops in pairs by using a larger hook: pull loops 3 and 4 tog through loops 1 and 2, then pull loops 5 and 6 through the 2 loops on the hook (loops 3 and 4), cont in this fashion across the top of the Hairpin Strip. pm in final pair of loops.
You now have a large chain effect of double-stranded yarn RS across the top of the Hairpin Strip, and for the purposes of the next row, the two strands at the back will tog be considered the back loop of the stitch. At this point, firmly but gently stretch the full length of the Hairpin Strip to relax the fabric.
Remove first marker from beg ch and insert 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook. With RS facing, 2tr blo in each large st around, ss to beg tr. [192 (240: 240: 288: 288) tr]
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Use this tail and the beg tail from the Hairpin Strip to neatly sew the ends of the Hairpin Strip together and secure the final pair of loops in with this join.
With Yarn C and 3.5 (3.25: 3.5: 3.25: 3.5)mm hook, Join New Yarn in RS beg tr of prev round, htr around, ss to beg htr, ch1 to change direction, cont to edge Arrowhead Strip: htr around, working 2htr/tr row, (inserting hook under 2 lps of each post segment), ss to beg htr. [192 (240: 240: 288: 288) htr]
Ch1 to change direction and continue to Ripple Seam as follows:
Holding WS of Hairpin Strip and Arrowhead Strip tog, (ss, ch1) in each paired flo around. Fasten off, use tail to close any gaps at the join of the Ripple Seam.
TO FINISH
As worked, the Arrowhead Strip and the Hairpin Strip will both tend to prevent the hemline from splaying, so the Skirt will appear bell-shaped and a bit bunched up. Firmly stretch the Hairpin and Arrowhead sections before attaching to the Skirt. Full blocking smooths all these kinks out.
To wet block, allow the fabric to soak for 30 minutes in warm water with diluted laundry detergent (to be fully relaxed), then rinse thoroughly and roll up in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay out flat, stretching the lower strips as necessary to achieve an A-line shape and leave to dry completely. Then, with an ironing board and steam iron set to cotton heat setting, steam block in sections (hover over the fabric for approximately 10 seconds for each section, cool and move on to next section) to achieve a smooth drape and further encourage full stretch along Arrowhead and Hairpin sections while steam blocking around lower Skirt.