How do I choose yarn?

Turn detective and test drive a modern yarn…

It’s usually not possible to use the yarn quoted in a vintage pattern, so you’ll need to make a yarn substitution. Some vintage patterns only list a weight of yarn, while other patterns give you a long list of possible yarns that you could use (see right). If a specific yarn is listed, there’s usually little information in the pattern about the yarn’s weight or fibre, so you’ll need to turn detective and search online to find more information – Ravelry is particularly helpful.

Start by matching the yarn’s weight, but don’t trust the label! Yarns were very different in the 19th and 20th centuries, so a ‘DK’ label could be closer to today’s 4ply or aran yarn. Cross reference that with the hook size, which can help give you an idea of the modern yarn weight that you could try (see table opposite). Then match the fibre content, or choose a blend that’s close to the original to ensure a similar drape and texture.

Whatever yarn you choose, bear in mind that this should just be a starting point – you must test the yarn’s suitability by making a tension swatch. Most vintage patterns include tension information, so adjust your yarn or hook size until the tension in your swatch matches the instructions.

Tension or gauge is quite forgiving on a small accessory, but for garments, it’s vital that you test drive the yarn and pattern, so just get one ball of a prospective yarn until you’re sure that it will work.

For further help, my workshop in issue 110 of Simply Crochet has more detail about yarn substitutions, while my workshop in issue 128 covers tension swatches.