HIDDEN GEM SOCKS
CHART A – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Round 1 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, yrn, P2. [17 sts]
Round 2 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, (K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1, P2.
Round 3 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, K1tbl, P2.
Round 4 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K1tbl, P2. Round 5 P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, yrn, P1, K1tbl, P2. Round 6 P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1, (K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1, P1, K1tbl, P2.
Round 7 P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, P2. Round 8 Repeat Round 4.
Round 9 P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, yrn, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P2. Round 10 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) twice, K1, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P2.
Round 11 P1, K1tbl, P2, twisted k2tog, (P1, K1tbl) twice, yfwd, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, P2.
Rounds 12 to 19 P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times,
K1tbl, P2. Rounds 1 to 19 set pattern and are repeated.
CHART B – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Round 1 P2, yon, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1. [17 sts] Round 2 P2, K1, (K1tbl, P1) twice, (K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 3 P2, K1tbl, yfwd, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 4 P2, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1. Round 5 P2, K1tbl, P1, yon, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 6 P2, K1tbl, P1, K1, (K1tbl, P1) twice, (K1tbl) twice, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 7 P2, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, yfwd, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1. Round 8 Repeat Round 4.
Round 9 P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, yon, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 10 P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1, (K1tbl, P1) twice, (K1tbl) twice, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Round 11 P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, yfwd, (K1tbl, P1) twice, twisted ssk, P2, K1tbl, P1.
Rounds 12 to 19 P2, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K1tbl, P2,
K1tbl, P1.
Rounds 1 to 19 set pattern and are repeated.
CUFF
Cast on 60 (64: 68: 72) sts using 3mm double pointed needles. The pattern has been written for a cast on with straight needles – if you want to join straight into the round, work Row 1 twice and omit Row 2 of the cuff pattern.
SIZE S
Row 1 (RS) (P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl) twice, P1, K1tbl, P1, K2, P1, (K1tbl, (P1, K1tbl) 5 times, P2) twice, K1tbl, P1.
Row 2 (WS) (K1tbl, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times, P1) twice, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, (P1, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K2) twice, P1, K1tbl.
SIZE M
Row 1 (RS) (P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P1, K2, P1, K1tbl, P1, (K1tbl, (P1, K1tbl) 5 times, P2) twice, K1tbl, P1.
Row 2 (WS) (K1tbl, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times, P1) twice, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, (P1, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K2) twice, P1, K1tbl.
SIZE L
Row 1 (RS) (P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) 3 times, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) twice, P1, (K1tbl, (P1, K1tbl) 5 times, P2) twice, K1tbl, P1.
Row 2 (WS) (K1tbl, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times, P1) twice, (K1tbl, P1) 3 times, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) twice, K1tbl, (P1, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K2) twice, P1, K1tbl.
SIZE XL
Row 1 (RS) (P1, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl) twice, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) 3 times, P1, (K1tbl, (P1, K1tbl) 5 times, P2) twice, K1tbl, P1.
Row 2 (WS) (K1tbl, P1, K2, (P1, K1tbl) 4 times, P1) twice, (K1tbl, P1) 4 times, K1tbl, P2, (K1tbl, P1) 3 times, K1tbl, (P1, (K1tbl, P1) 5 times, K2) twice, P1, K1tbl.
Change to a 2.5mm divide the stitches across DPNs and join into a circle, place marker. You will sew up the small gap where you knitted the first two rows later.
ALL SIZES
Repeat Row 1 for 14 more rounds or until desired length of rib.
LEG (MAKE BOTH THE SAME)
Using either written or charted instructions for your size, work each round until leg measures 15 (17)cm or desired length from cast-on edge, remembering which round of the chart you finished on for the gusset.
SIZE S
Round 1 Work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart A, K26, work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart B.
Round 2 and subsequent rounds As for Round 1, following Charts A and B as written.
SIZE M
Round 1 Work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart A, K30, work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart B.
Round 2 and subsequent rounds As for Round 1, following Charts A and B as written.
SIZE L
Round 1 Work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart A, K34, work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart B.
Round 2 and subsequent rounds As for Round 1, following Charts A and B as written.
SIZE XL
Round 1 Work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart A, K38, work 17 sts of Round 1 of Chart B.
Round 2 and subsequent rounds As for Round 1, following Charts A and B as written.
HEEL FLAP – LEFT FOOT
Change to 2.5mm DPNs if you are using a short circular needle. There is no need to use DPNs if you are using magic loop. you may prefer to place the spare stitches from the top of the foot onto a stitch holder if you are using a short circular or DPNs whilst you work the heel.
Row 1 K2, (sl 1, P1) until you have 28 (30: 32: 34) sts on your needle, sl 1, K1, turn.
[30 (32: 34: 36) sts]
Row 2 Sl 1, (P1, K1) to last 3 stitches, P3, turn. Row 3 Sl 1, K1, (sl 1, P1) to last 2 sts, sl 1, K1, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until heel flap measures approximately 5cm, finishing on Row 3. If you want to make the heel flap longer, continuing knitting Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired length, but remember that you will need to pick up more stitches to create the gusset.
HEEL FLAP – RIGHT FOOT
Work 29 (31: 33: 35) sts in pattern before starting heel flap and work as for right foot.
TURN HEEL – BOTH THE SAME
Row 1 Sl 1, P16 (17: 18: 19), p2tog, P1, turn.
Row 2 Sl 1, K5, ssk, K1, turn.
Row 3 Sl 1, P6, p2tog, P1, turn.
Row 4 Sl 1, K7, ssk, K1, turn.
Continue in this way, adding one stitch between slip stitch and ssk or p2tog on each row (ie, Row 5: Sl 1, P8, p2tog, P1; Row 6: Sl 1, K9, ssk, K1, etc) until all of the heel stitches are used.
LEFT FOOT
Use Chart A only for gusset and foot.
Knit across heel stitches if required to bring you to the left hand side of the heel flap (with the outside of the flap facing you), ready to pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows knitted. Remember that if you made the heel flap bigger, you will need to pick up more stitches. Once you have picked up the stitches, place marker. Work across the top of the foot stitches in pattern, place marker, then pick up 1 stitch for every 2 rows of heel flap knitted up the other side of the heel. Knit across the top of the heel and then shape gusset as below.
RIGHT FOOT
Use Chart A only for gusset and foot.
Work as for left foot but note the following: you will find that you have an extra purl stitch, left over from the round before as you worked 29 (31: 33: 35) sts before starting the heel flap. To keep the pattern correct, pick up the first set of gusset stitches and incorporate this stitch into the number of picked up stitches, and then once you have worked across the top of the foot stitches in pattern, incorporate the first stitch of the second set of picked up stitches into the top of the foot stitches to give you the right number for your size.
Note If you are using DPNs and/or have placed your stitches on a stitch holder, you can arrange the needles as follows:
Needle 1 for stitches across heel, Needle 2 for picked-up stitches down side of foot, Needle 3 for stitches across top of foot (knit stitches off stitch holder if required), Needle 4 for picked-up stitches on other side of foot. you may find that stitch markers are not required at first.
SHAPE GUSSET
Round 1 K to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, K1, slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker, slip marker, K1, ssk, K to marker.
Round 2 Slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker, slip marker, knit to 3 sts before marker.
Round 3 k2tog, K1, slip marker, knit in pattern to next marker, slip marker, K1, ssk, K to marker. Repeat rounds 2 and 3 to shape the gusset. Continue in this way, decreasing by two stitches at the gusset on every other round until there are 60 (64: 68: 72) sts on the needle.
Once you have reached the required number of stitches, continue to knit each round in pattern until you reach approximately 5cm before the desired length ready to start the toes. Don’t be afraid to try your sock on before decreasing for the toes.
TOES
Note At some point whilst decreasing for the toes, if you are using a short circular needle you may need to change back to DPNs or use the magic loop method as the number of stitches becomes too small for the circular. It’s up to you when you choose to do that, and how you distribute the stitches across the needles; just keep following the pattern as set below. You can choose whether to continue the pattern as set to the end of the toes, to knit round 12 only to create twisted rib lines as pictured or to knit each round.
Create the toes as follows:
Round 1 K1, ssk, K24 (or pattern if desired) (26: 28: 30) sts, k2tog, K1, place marker, K1, ssk, K24 (or pattern if desired) (26: 28: 30) sts, k2tog, K1. [56 (60: 64: 68) sts]
Round 2 Knit one round (or pattern if desired), slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3 K1, ssk, K to 3 sts before marker (or pattern if desired), k2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, ssk, K to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, K1.
[52 (56: 60: 64) sts]
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have 28 sts left and divide these between two needles so that front and back of socks match.
Graft toes using Kitchener stitch, weave in all ends and sew up the small gap at the cuff where you cast on. Block socks gently, following any instructions on the ball band.