Johannesburg
Don’t let a fear of crime put you off — this South African gem is starting to shine
STORY TONY THOMAS
My excitement was palpable. A journey to South Africa was a tick off the bucket list. “I’m off to South Africa, first stop Johannesburg,’’ I elatedly told colleagues. Then came the downer. “Oh, why would you want to go to Johannesburg. The crime there is out of control.’’
My enthusiasm had waned slightly but I was determined to make the most of it. When I did some research on Johannesburg, yep, the crime rate was high. The city’s reputation wasn’t flash.
And it’s at this point I needed some reality – I needed to check it out for myself.
And what was the reality? Johannesburg is not nearly as bad as the naysayers will have us believe. Sure, the crime rate is higher than a lot of other major cities but is also improving dramatically. More and more people are taking responsibility for their neighbourhoods.
I could feel the sense of change and the locals were more than a little chuffed that an outsider had noticed.
Two particular areas highlight the changing landscape of South Africa’s biggest city. MABONENG This hamlet in the middle of the city is a revelation. After visiting the district at the start of my trip, I had to go back again at the end.
Just over 20 years ago, Maboneng was the last place you wanted to visit. It was at the epicentre of a large crime wave post-Apartheid. It got so bad that any businesses in the area quickly shut up shop and moved to safer environs. The district became a wasteland.
But a young property developer named Jonathan Liebmann wasn’t about to give up on Maboneng. He could see its enormous potential. He set about reclaiming derelict businesses, transforming buildings and warehouses, attracting shopkeepers and homeowners back into the area.
In 2009, the Maboneng precinct opened. It was a vibrant mix of apartment-style living, eclectic businesses, restaurants and cafes, built around the Arts On Main area. On the ground floor of Arts On Main is a wonderful pot pourri of African cuisine. The aromas are enough to have you coming back, let alone the array of fresh food.
Marla has worked on her pastries stand for five years and is a devotee of the changes sweeping across the city.
“I do remember what this area was like and it has completely transformed in a short amount of time. We get a lot of tourists coming through here but also a lot of locals who come down to try things out,’’ she said.
Once you’ve finished tasting the local fare, wander on down to The Living Room, a rooftop bar with a long list of marvellous cocktails, live music and a view to die for across the inner-city skyline. SOWETO A trip to Joburg is not complete without visiting Soweto. There is still a sense of trepidation heading into the township. Soweto’s reputation continues to precede it, those dark days of high school students protesting only to be cut down by an aggressive police force.
But that was 1976 and this is now. Soweto is changing. The people have taken charge of the crime situation, which has reduced dramatically. Criminals often want to be caught by the police first, knowing that being caught by the locals will result in a far worse punishment.
The home Nelson Mandela lived in before his arrest still stands at the centre of the township on Vilakazi St, which bursts at the seams with cafes, bars and shops and the overwhelming sense of people having a good time.
The disused Orlando Power Station, resplendent with its two tall steam towers now painted in local artworks, is open for bungy jumping. If you’re going to do it, then this is the place.
You can quad bike through the residential areas, many still seemingly gripped by poverty, and find a raft of kids on the side of the streets, smiles broad and hands outstretched for a “high five”.
There is an effervescence here that really has to be felt rather than imagined.