Must eat
Top End chef David Taylor gives you a taste of the good tucker to be found in the Territory
Roma Bar
ADDRESS: 9 Cavenagh Street, Darwin City PHONE: 8981 6729 OWNERS: Phoebe and Dustin Breyer-Menke BREAKFAST: $10 to $18 LUNCH: $7 to $18 OPEN: Monday to Saturday, 7am to 2pm, and Sunday, 8am to 1pm STAR QUALITY: 4.4/5
One of our city’s longest running cafes, Roma Bar has been a loved meeting point since 1973. Virtually undamaged by Cyclone Tracy, it continued to trade soon after the dust settled. It has a chequered history of ownership, with tales of the place being won and lost over a hand of cards, but one solid theme remains today — excellent coffee, good food and a strong connection to community.
OK, so I need to be upfront with you all. I adore Roma Bar, and the owner’s mum even more. Patti Ring has been at the helm of this place since 1987 and is one of my foodie soulmates. She and Paul Costigan worked tirelessly for nearly 30 years to provide us with great food, coffee and a safe place to chat. Now semi-retired, Roma Bar is in the capable hands of daughter Phoebe and hubby Dustin.
So strong are the community ties to the place, I remember in 2007 when the original shop was vacated to make way for a new building, a swag of customers turned up and physically moved chairs, tables and equipment across the road to its present home, bringing traffic to a standstill. That is loyalty in motion.
What remains unchanged is Patti’s focused approach to food: “Source as much as possible locally, and know exactly where everything comes from. Make as much as humanly possible by hand, from scratch, with love. Give your customers what they want and give them variety,” she says with that warm wide smile that melts me every time.
This comes by way of a daily changing blackboard menu of locally grown produce. Always fresh and always deliciously prepared.
A band of regulars dine here every day, some since forever. The “Who’s Who” of Darwin are often spotted. I can’t think of another cafe that has such a loyal following.
I dined alone recently, with a hankering for a burger — a weakness, I know. I was treated to a mountain of solid, healthy goodness. Locally baked multigrain bun, thick, juicy, peppery beef patty, fried egg, fried onion, cheese, lettuce, tomato and iconic beetroot. Old-school Aussie perfection at its freshest and finest. At a silly $13 this has to be the best value in the Top End.
A few days later I met a friend for brunch. I wanted a burger again … but for the sake of writing this review, I tried a BLAT instead. Bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato. Just right. Note too that sauces and dressings are made on the premises. The tomato sauce contains chunks of tomatoes; there is real mayo without sugar, emulsifiers and numbered chemicals. Fancy that.
A buddy from ABC Radio spotted us and said hi. “I don’t think anymore, I just get hungry and the next thing I know I have teleported here. I love the fact they do a half breakfast. Everything that’s in a full cooked brekkie, but smaller.” Sounds good to me.
Brunch buddy went for simple poached eggs on toast. Perfect eggs, and super crispy herbed sourdough bread was just what he needed.
This stalwart of Darwin’s food scene holds steadfast to its foundations, providing us with the best of local produce, lovingly prepared. Forty-five years of continued service need to be celebrated.