Murray River
Australia’s longest waterway is steeped in history, both indigenous and European. Discover its charms on board a relaxing river cruise
STORY TRICIA QUIRK
The ever-changing face of the Murray River has captivated visitors for years and holds a special place in the hearts of its regular travellers. Terry Salmond, captain of the Murray
Princess, says every one of the countless trips he’s had on the paddlewheeler over 25 years has been different.
“You never come through twice and see the same things … there are always small changes,” he said. “And as the seasons change the whole feel of the river changes.”
One of the world’s longest navigable rivers, the Murray stretches more than 2500km across South Australia, Victoria and New South Wales.
From the 1880s to the early 1900s it was a major trading route for boats carrying supplies into the country and wool from the region. Today activity is mostly recreational.
Terry, a marine engineer from Adelaide, said the Murray was “like one very long country town”.
“It is a totally different feeling being involved with the river … it’s something you can’t see from the road. And it’s wonderful to be able to show this to people.”
Terry‘s vessel is an authentic working stern paddlewheeler, built more than 30 years ago to recreate the golden age of Australian paddle steamers.
Captain Cook Cruises’ new seven-night Upper Murraylands cruise covers 408km with more than 10 stops along the way. They include:
MANNUM
The cruise starts and finishes in Mannum, 90 minutes drive from Adelaide. At the beginning of the cruise, it seems like a small picturesque river town — main street including quaint shops, population of 2000. After a week visiting a host of tiny river settlements and villages it takes on almost urban qualities. The historic town also marks the start of the 84km pipeline to Adelaide that carries water from the river to be used for agriculture.
BANROCK STATION
Conservation and viticulture come together at the Wine and Wetland Centre where, since 1994, Banrock Station has been restoring the wetlands that exist alongside its vineyards.
A haven for native wildlife has been created with the planting of thousands of trees and shrubs and reintroducing natural wetting and drying cycles.
There are three self-guided walking trails through the wetland area — a great way to build up an appetite for wine tasting and sampling from the restaurant menu that features local produce.
MORGAN
In its heyday Morgan was one of the busiest ports on the river. The Murray Princess ties up alongside the remnants of the town’s massive wharf that towered nine metres above the normal level of the river, was 168m long and, after its completion in 1912, had gangs of up to 50 men working 24-hour shifts.
Displays in the town’s lovingly collated museum show how young our history really is — many cruise passengers remembered growing up using the same items that now make up the exhibits.
The more sinister side of the town is explored during an after-dark ghost walk with the captain — ending at Morgan’s first morgue, an 1886 sandstone building complete with a “corpse”.
SUNNYDALE AT BIG BEND
With the ship secured to a couple of big gum trees the passengers disembark and head bush on a range of carts and carriages.
The destination is a farm where the multigenerational family is redirecting most of its working efforts to tourism — with an engaging woolshed show, a native wildlife shelter and other experiences.
These include (at an additional cost for cruise passengers) a nocturnal tour where, rugged up in an open-air cart, we see kangaroos, emus, wombats and, most memorably, an albino kangaroo. We also enjoy a tasty bush tucker breakfast served in a rustic riverside setting.
NGAUT NGAUT
Ngaut Ngaut Aboriginal Conservation Park is one of the most significant Aboriginal archaeological digs in Australia.
Tribal elders have returned to the area to both protect it and share its mysteries with visitors, who must be accompanied by an indigenous guide.
Ancient rock carvings are the history books to the area and the lively commentary brings that history to life — our guide pointed out some bee hives half way up the steep sandstone cliffs.
“It used to be the job of the Aboriginal women to climb the cliffs to get the honey,” she said. “We don’t do that any more. We just go to Woolies.”
There are two tours to choose from — an easy boardwalk circuit, alongside the ancient rock carvings, or a 200-plus step climb to the
top of the cliffs that features remnants of early habitation and tools. Both finish at stalls selling jewellery and Aboriginal art.
The Murray Princess has 60 cabins of varying configurations, mostly twin share, and all with ensuites. While not luxurious they are comfortable and functional.
Within a day or so of boarding the busyness of life takes a back seat to the gentle rhythms of the river.
There are plenty of places inside and outside to settle down with a book, enjoy the everchanging scenery and activity or just contemplate what new deliciousness is being created in the kitchen.
Throughout the journey information about passing places of interest and local stories are shared by the captain. Every day there are activities both on board and ashore.
Appealing largely to the retired community, the cruise is an accessible way for people to explore the icon that the mighty Murray is for many Australians and international visitors.
From the 97-year-old from WA enjoying his first excursion on the Murray Princess to the repeat traveller who has cruised the river nearly 30 times, the Murray had a certain magnetic power over all the passengers.
So the last word should go to an expert. After his 28 cruises on the Murray Princess, Dave said it was the tranquillity that kept him coming back.
“You can’t get better than this … a floating restaurant passing all this fantastic scenery … and always meeting new people,” he said.