Sunday Territorian

Must eat

Top End chef David Taylor gives you a taste of the good tucker to be found in the Territory

- DAVID TAYLOR CLYDE SELBY restaurant review

Asian Gateway

ADDRESS: 58 Aralia St Nightcliff PHONE: 8948 1131 OWNER/CHEF: Wanida Tagnipis ENTREES: $5 to $7 MAINS: $18 to $28 OPEN: Seven days 5pm-9 pm and for takeaway lunches 11am-2pm STAR QUALITY: 4/5

THE Gateway first opened its doors in the early 80s. The original owners retired about four years ago when Wanida took over. She is from Udon Thani province in the far north of Thailand. As a teen she went to Darwin and Casuarina High schools and started her culinary journey then. Her journey took her into many Darwin kitchens, and she also managed a very large restaurant in Melbourne before returning to Darwin.

Like me, there was never a moment in our shared Darwin memory that didn’t include the Asian Gateway. In fact, this place hosted her parents wedding party in the 90s.

There is a pleasant and welcoming glow to this place.

Comfortabl­e seating, table linen and genuine smiles from the staff. Its licensed, but it doesn’t mean that you will be stung with outrageous prices.

There is an impressive range of wines and a great selection of beers too.

Thai food works so well with a glass of ice cold beer and it’s good to see several Thai beers available.

I have almost run out of friends, but I managed to find one wretched soul who I dragged along to try out the food. It had been a few years since my last visit, and I had kept promising myself to go back.

We shared some Moo Ping, pork satay sticks with a sweet chilly dipping sauce.

The two large pieces were marinated, seasoned simply and were just the most tender bits of pork I’ve tried in ages. Just perfect to get the juices flowing.

My all-time favourite Thai comfort food is Ga Prow Gai. It’s a stir fry of chicken with vegetables and flavoured with chillies and Ga Prow (holy basil leaves).

It is just so damned good, and Wanida knows her stuff. There is a certain squishy squeak you get when you bite into very fresh snake beans, I love it!

This was equal to the best I’ve had anywhere, including my house.

I actually try a cook this, or at least have this once a week. I am positive it’s the solitary reason for my youthful radiance. Healthy to boot. I am also a sucker for a good Paad Siew. Sort of like pad Thai but on steroids. Big, thick wide rice noodles stirred with tender beef, veg and Wanida’s is full of crunchy bok choi. It all made for a very satisfying late Sunday evening meal, and it didn’t break the piggy bank.

Chatting to Wanida after our meal, she says to like the Facebook page, as she posts very special and unique dishes to appease the Thai community and her faithful Farang customers.

I am waiting for her steamed stuffed squid. Pla Muk Nu Manau — stuffed with minced chicken, garlic, pepper and oyster sauce. Yummo.

She makes the claim of the “world’s best” deep fried whole barra in a three flavoured sauce. You need to order in advance. Bring it on I say.

Wander back in if you have been away for awhile and relax into some wonderful food.

 ??  ?? Asian Gateway staff Nittaya Thawinan, Thitiwan Dwangmalai, Thippharat Dwangmalai, Wanida Tagnipis and Wilaiwan Butamalee
Asian Gateway staff Nittaya Thawinan, Thitiwan Dwangmalai, Thippharat Dwangmalai, Wanida Tagnipis and Wilaiwan Butamalee
 ??  ?? Asian Gateway’s Ga Pow Gai (left) and Mu Ping Pork satays
Asian Gateway’s Ga Pow Gai (left) and Mu Ping Pork satays
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