Queenstown

Some dining is so high-end, it’s only accessible by helicopter, writes ALAN OAKLEY

QUEENSTOWN is the adventure capital of the adventure nation. From here you can snow ski, heli-ski, water ski, parasail, paraglide, jet boat, shark boat, raft, climb, canyon, mountain bike, ebike, heli-bike, hike, hunt, bungy, zip ride and skydive — and capture your adrenaline rush on Go-Pro for bragging rights. Frankly it’s tiring merely contemplating which thrill to seek. Or like me you can just go to lunch. Admittedly, this was not just any lunch. Our passive adventure would take us to an exclusive location so elevated and secluded, it’s accessible only by helicopter.

FLIGHT OF THE CONVIVIAL

Minaret Station Alpine Lodge sits remarkably unobtrusively at the head of a glacial valley, a 25-minute breathtaking helicopter ride from Queenstown or Lake Wanaka over the South Island peaks and fjords.

We hop mountain tops and descend into an alpine meadow of lush grass and streams and our seven-seat chopper sets down on a timber platform no bigger than the average sun deck.

Minaret has to be New Zealand’s most isolated exclusive getaway, with just four luxury chalets plus the Mountain Kitchen lodge for fireside chats and communal dining. Add in a balcony for alfresco occasions and Minaret is surely one of the most peaceful and harmonious travel experiences anywhere in the world. From here you can explore the valley on newly-created boardwalks.

All produce is sourced locally, including lamb, beef and venison from Minaret’s 50,000acre high country farm a little further down the valley. Everything has to be flown in and out by helicopter, including staff, so it’s good to know the lodge is doing its best for sustainable tourism by using hydropower from the nearest waterfall. Drinking water is pure melted snow.

TOP END OF THE LAKE

We’re here to discover a collection of exclusive experiences centred on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and Lake Hayes. Starting at the top, here’s what $6500 a night gets you.

Five minutes outside Queenstown and viewed from the road, Elms on Lake Hayes is an underwhelming sight and deliberately so — privacy is paramount for the occasional celebrity guest. All this changes when you step downstairs past the chandelier made of wine bottles and into one of three lavish villas. It’s 300 square metres of superbly-styled indulgence by highly regarded hotel interior designer Virginia Fisher, who also remodelled Eichardt’s Private Hotel in town with its famous cubicle bar (a must for visitors).

The three and four-bedroom villas are cleverly configured for privacy from your fellow guests or they can be interconnected into a single residence.

Step outside on to the huge patio and it’s the silence that hits you (powered water craft are banned from this part of the lake). You may hear a cyclist swoosh by on their way to the pretty village of Arrowtown just 10 minutes away via the lakeside track. Amisfield vineyard and its cellar door sales are 100m away.

But the real joy is the view. On a chilly day, you can grab a hot water bottle with its possum fur cover, position yourself by the patio fireplace and take in the mountain tops of The Remarkables ski field.

VIEWS WITH A HUGE ROOM

Eichardt’s Private Hotel and The Spire Hotel are Queenstown’s five-star boutique experience. The suites — nine at Eichardt’s and 10 at The Spire — are each the size of a small apartment, with stone fireplace, super king bed, topof-the-range multimedia system and thoughtfully-stocked bar (all wines are local). Even the soap is made locally and exclusively for these two hotels.

But once again it’s the views that are priceless. At The Spire, the sweeping alpine landscape can be seen from the bed, bath and balcony, with a possum fur throw for extra warmth when venturing outside (according to the hotel, some guests never leave their suite.)

Eichardt’s also offers the ultimate stay — a 240 sq metre penthouse with floor-to-ceiling, 180-degree views of Lake Wakatipu and the alpine range. Like Elms on Lake Hayes, it comes with personal chef and Land Rover and driver to explore Central Otago. If you want to cruise the lake in luxury, the hotel also hires out Queenstown’s only superyacht, Pacific Jemm, which can be chartered for daily cruises or overnight stays.

DINE IS THE GLORY

Both hotels offer fine dining in casual urbanstyle surrounds, Eichardt’s at The Grille and The Spire at No5 Church Lane. There’s almost a religious devotion to locally sourced and homemade produce. The signature dish at The Grille, Te Mana lamb, is raised in the high country and fed on chicory for a unique taste. It’s served on a tasting board of 100% local produce.

But No5 Church Lane is the surprise. In a region where lamb, beef, venison and blue cod are staples, No5 has taken an entirely, slightly rebellious direction. The focus is on healthy eating, with multiple choices for vegetarians featuring local seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs. Do not leave without tasting the banana blossom.

All wines are from the Otago region and the pinot noir is probably the pick (if you’re fussy and/or a wine snob, they’ll send someone around the corner to Eichardt’s for a specific label from elsewhere — but there’s really no need).

AFTER DINNER GLOW

To end the evening, there’s really only one place to be: Eichardt’s bar and parlour. Settle into one of the sumptuous leather booths in front of the fire. Whisky never tasted better.

The next morning, the stunning views and mountain air are free.