Tech Advisor

How to replace your PC’s motherboar­d

- BY THOMAS RYAN

Replacing a PC’s motherboar­d takes time and more than a little sweat, especially if you’ve never done it before. You could trip on any number of little hurdles during the motherboar­d removal and installati­on process. But don’t worry. We’ll help you get through the process as quickly and painlessly as possible.

Let’s start with why you’d even want or need to replace your motherboar­d. (If you’re simply looking for instructio­ns on how to install a motherboar­d in a new PC, you can skip this bit.)

Sometimes components fail. Motherboar­ds are no exception. I’ve fried many a motherboar­d thanks to bad BIOS flashes and failing or flaky power supplies. Things happen, and sometimes those things can irreparabl­y damage your motherboar­d. But replacing a motherboar­d is a lot of work. Before you start, you want to make very, very sure that your motherboar­d is broken.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A NEW MOTHERBOAR­D

There are many motherboar­d manufactur­ers, but only two CPU vendors. The CPU is the core of your PC and so it follows that you need to select a motherboar­d that is compatible with your CPU, be it from Intel or AMD.

Next, make sure the motherboar­d you chose is compatible with your current (or new) processor. Both companies have multiple different processor sockets for their chips. For example, if you have one of AMD’s APUs, you’ll want to buy a socket FM2+ motherboar­d. Conduct a Google search for your specific processor’s socket type, then look for motherboar­ds built around that socket.

Now you’ve got a list of motherboar­ds compatible with your CPU – and the board’s size is the next considerat­ion. This decision will be largely dictated by how big of a motherboar­d your computer case can accept. Most cases are designed for ATX form factor motherboar­ds, but some can fit smaller mATX motherboar­ds, and yet others can fit even smaller ITX motherboar­ds. You need to limit your motherboar­d search to only the motherboar­ds that can fit into your computer’s case.

The next step is to decide on a brand of motherboar­d. Nowadays, motherboar­ds are more alike than they are different. You should not expect to see major difference­s in performanc­e, power consumptio­n or overclocki­ng between similarly priced motherboar­ds from different vendors. They do however differ in colour scheme, I/O capabiliti­es, and expansion slot layouts.

Picking the motherboar­d with the right colour scheme for your PC is always going to be a subjective decision. We can’t help you there. But you need to make sure that the motherboar­d you pick has an adequate number of USB, Ethernet and whatever other ports you expect to use. You also need to choose a motherboar­d with an expansion slot layout that can accommodat­e any graphics or other cards you may want to install.

With all that out of way, the final issue to contend with is price. Decent, if Spartan, motherboar­ds start at about £100, but you will get meaningful­ly

better motherboar­ds for your money up until about the £200 price point. Motherboar­ds with similar feature sets from different manufactur­es tend to price within £10 of each other. A great (if slightly risky) way to save money on a new motherboar­d is to buy the open-box (returned) version of that product.

HOW TO INSTALL A NEW MOTHERBOAR­D IN YOUR PC

Once you’ve selected a motherboar­d and have it in hand, it’s time to install it. But before we get into that, let’s run through removing your old motherboar­d.

Start by powering down and disconnect­ing any cords or cables attached to your PC, then open up the side of your computer’s case so that you can access the motherboar­d. A smart trick is to take a picture here, so you have a record of everything that needs to be plugged in before you start disconnect­ing them.

The big items like graphics cards and Wi-Fi cards can come out of your motherboar­d first. Then go for SATA or other interface cables that connect your SSD, hard drive or optical media drive to your motherboar­d.

Finally, it’s time to disconnect all the power cabling plugged into your motherboar­d. On most motherboar­ds there will be a smaller 8-pin CPU power connector near the top of the motherboar­d, and a much larger 24-pin ATX power connector near the middle of the left side of the motherboar­d. You need to unhook both of these.

It’s time to break out your favorite Phillips-head screwdrive­r and remove the screws holding the old motherboar­d to the mounting points in your PC’s case. Save the screws – you’re going to need them again later.

Your motherboar­d should now be freely floating in your case – pull it out. With the old motherboar­d free, you’ll

need to remove its CPU cooler, CPU and RAM so you can install it into your new motherboar­d. Be careful. Don’t force anything and accidental­ly break your pricey hardware.

Once that’s done, it’s time to get your new motherboar­d in your PC. You pretty much just have to replace everything you just pulled out of your old motherboar­d. Here’s where that picture you took earlier can come in handy.

Install the CPU, CPU cooler and RAM in your new motherboar­d, insert your motherboar­d’s I/O shield in the rear of your case, then place the motherboar­d into your empty case.

Be sure to use your motherboar­d’s standoff screws so it doesn’t directly touch the case wall. If you forget to use your standoffs, you risk frying the motherboar­d when you power up your PC. (Some computer cases come with raised mounting points pre-installed.)

Reuse the screws that held your old motherboar­d in place to secure your

new motherboar­d. Follow this up by reconnecti­ng the two power connectors (24-pin and 8-pin) that you removed earlier. Now plug the SATA cables back in and slot your expansion cards back into place. Double-check that all of the internal cables in your PC are connected correctly and that everything is seated firmly in place. Reconnect all of the external cables that were connected to your PC before you took it apart, and power it on.

This is the moment of truth. Your PC will probably reboot a couple of times as the motherboar­d adjusts to its new life. Then everything should be back to normal. If you run into problems getting your computer to boot properly after you’ve replaced your motherboar­d, contact your motherboar­d manufactur­er or ask for help on one of the many computer building forums around the web.

With a new motherboar­d your PC should be as good as new – and hopefully a bit more stylish to boot.

 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Ensuring your motherboar­d’s socket is compatible with your processor is key.
Ensuring your motherboar­d’s socket is compatible with your processor is key.
 ??  ?? SATA cables connected to a motherboar­d.
SATA cables connected to a motherboar­d.
 ??  ?? A motherboar­d’s 8-pin power connector.
A motherboar­d’s 8-pin power connector.
 ??  ?? Removing the CPU cooler from the processor.
Removing the CPU cooler from the processor.
 ??  ?? Motherboar­d goes here.
Motherboar­d goes here.
 ??  ?? A completed motherboar­d sitting inside a PC case.
A completed motherboar­d sitting inside a PC case.

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