Grab your gear Clothes may make the person, but tools make the PC builder. Here are some of the most helpful items you’ll come across.
(16) Screw bowl You can splurge on a magnetic bowl for your screws if you want, but really, any little bowl will do the trick. Even a simple kitchen ramekin will work. The important thing is keeping all of your screws in the same place when you’re working on a rig; they can be easy to lose, and that only leads to frustration. (17) Thermal paste Most coolers come with paste, but our go-to is Noctua’s NT-H1. It’s not very expensive, and Noctua coolers come with some – one tube is good for multiple applications, and it’s a pleasingly thick, nonconductive paste that does a good job of transferring heat. You only need a pea-sized dot on normal CPUs. (18) Cable ties These are the most important thing for any PC builder. They’re dirt cheap online, and come in a variety of sizes for different uses, primarily for organizing the internals of your rig. Most cases have slots on the frame to strap down cables, and they can be used for tying up loose wires to keep your case tidy. (19) Isopropyl alcohol
If you’re planning on switching out your processor or cooler, you’re going to need this stuff. It’s inexpensive, and nothing is more effective when it comes to cleaning off dried thermal paste or dirty smudges on metal. As an added bonus, it’s one of the few substances that isn’t going to kill your components if it gets on them. Keep it away from your eyes, though. (20) Screwdrivers A Phillips screwdriver will serve you well in most situations, but a proper set is worth the money. Allen screws, tiny M.2 drive screws, and bizarre proprietary screws all prove frustrating eventually, unless you’ve got the right tool to coerce them loose. If you’ve got a bit more cash, mag-tip screwdrivers can be a godsend when dealing with smaller screws inside a case. (21) Spudger This funky little gadget will set you back barely a dollar or two, and can come in very handy. Used by the tech-dismantling pros at iFixit for prying apart stubborn components, its thin plastic edge can also be used to gently realign bent pins on AMD processors.
(22) Memory installation
RAM is one of the easiest things to install. Memory slots have either one or two clasps on their short edges, so ensure these are open first. Find the notch on the base of the memory stick, and line it up with the notch in the memory slot, then push it down. It should click into place – the clasps pop shut automatically. Bear in mind that memory slots are usually not in numbered order on the board; they are typically color-coded to indicate which slots use which channels. For dual or quadchannel support to work properly, the RAM needs to be installed in the correct slots. If you’re unsure, check the motherboard’s manual – it’ll let you know exactly which slots to use.
(23) M.2 installation
If you’re using conventional HDDs or 2.5-inch SATA drives for storage, you need to install them in the case, then run a cable from them to the motherboard. The flashier M.2 SSD format is installed directly on the mobo. Make sure the mounting peg is in the right position for the length of your SSD, then remove the tiny Phillips screw, and fit the M.2 into the drive slot. Apply a little pressure to hold it down, and replace the tiny screw. Many motherboards come equipped with a heatsink for the M.2 drive – this needs to be removed before installation, then returned to the board once the SSD is in place. Don’t forget to remove the plastic covering the thermal pad, or you’re likely to smell burning once your build is up and running.
(24) GPU installation
The graphics card is often the bulkiest piece of gear going on to your motherboard, so take care when installing it. These cards can be heavy, and dropping one on to a board risks damaging both components. Remove the expansion slot covers from your case first, then ensure that the clip on the PCIe slot is released. Like the clasps on RAM slots, it snaps closed once the component is properly installed. Position the GPU with the rear I/O in line with the rear of the case, then gently push it down until you hear the clip. Secure it to the case with screws straight away. This principle can also be applied to other parts that are installed in the PCIe slots, such as soundcards and other expansion pieces. Be sure to use the uppermost slot for your GPU to ensure the best performance.
(25) Foggy memory
When a build won’t boot, memory is frequently the issue. If you can access the BIOS, you should be able to see whether the memory is detected properly. If not, or if it isn’t seeing all of it, try removing and reinstalling the RAM. Check
that the sticks are installed in the correct slots; if they are, but it’s still not running, give the additional slots a try. As a last resort, try reseating your graphics card and CPU.
(26) Power on
The first thing to look for if your build won’t boot is the motherboard’s debug display. Not all mobos have one – it’s usually a calculator-esque seven-segment display, although some high-end boards have a small screen for displaying error codes. Take to Google or consult the motherboard manual, and you should be able to isolate the issue. If you’re not sure, or your board doesn’t have a display, try these next few tips.
(27) Energy checks
Is everything plugged in? It sounds silly, but we’ve all done it. The GPU isn’t connected to the PSU, the front I/O wires aren’t powered, the boot drive isn’t plugged in properly. If everything looks like it’s in the right place, but you’re still staring at a black screen, try using a different cable for your display; HDMI and DisplayPort cables are notorious for failing when you need them most, particularly if you’re using cheaper ones.
(28) OS install
Sometimes, it’s Windows that’s causing the problem. This is particularly likely to occur when transferring an older drive to a new build, generally caused by driver or program conflicts, resulting in a failure to boot. OS files are susceptible to corruption, too. If this is the case, resets and updates aren’t likely to help; the only option that might fix the problem is to reinstall Windows completely to your boot drive. We usually recommend installing a fresh copy of your OS with each new build.
(29) Hardware testing
Hopefully it won’t come to this, but sometimes components simply die. If you want to do some final checks before calling the RMA line, you generally need a second (functioning) PC. You can test RAM sticks by plugging in each one separately and attempting to boot. For other components, you need to swap each one out and test it on another motherboard, or replace it with another part you’re certain is functioning.
(30) BIOS update
Most modern motherboards support updating the BIOS via the Internet, but if yours doesn’t, you can usually grab the update file from the manufacturer’s site. Download it on to a blank USB drive and plug it into the mobo, then find the update option within the BIOS’s advanced mode. Select “Update from storage,” locate the file on the memory stick, and you’re all set.