The new anti-ageing creams: which ones work for you
Sheree Mutton asks the experts for the most effective anti-ageing ingredients to have your skin looking its best.
With all the antiageing skincare products on the market promising to give you wrinklefree and spotless skin, it can be difficult to know what actually works. Every year, cosmetic companies spend billions of dollars searching for the next “wonder ingredient” to fulfil our desire to defy the clock.
“The last decade has seen advancements in anti-ageing ingredients, as well as new insights into the exact processes involved in skin ageing,” says dermatologist Dr Michelle Hunt.
In the Australian skincare market, estimated to be worth about $1.5 billion, the most expensive anti-ageing products are not always the best when it comes to effective ingredients. “It’s important for consumers to be aware that just because the label indicates the product contains a particular ingredient, that doesn’t mean it will necessarily work,” says dermatologist Dr Nina Wines.
“Some ingredients have a temporary effect on application, to make the skin shine, and have absolutely no impact on the skin long-term. The concentration within the product and how it is delivered to the skin are of vital importance.”
How our skin ages
It’s no secret that, as we age, your skin undergoes significant changes related to the environment, our hormones and lifestyle factors. By our early 30s, many of us will notice that our skin has
become dryer and is showing signs of sun damage, such as dark spots and wrinkles. This coupled with the slowing of skin cell turnover can result in a duller complexion. The good news is that applying a broadspectrum sunscreen every day can prevent premature ageing by helping to minimise hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles.
“Sun protection is one of the most important elements in maintaining youthful skin,” says Dr Michelle Hunt. “Many of the skin changes that we associate with ageing are actually the result of sun exposure.
“Advances in sunscreen ingredients and formulations have resulted in higher protection sunscreens [particularly against the ageing UVA rays]. Sunscreen reduces the risk not only of skin cancers, but also the visible signs of skin ageing, such as blotchy pigmentation and wrinkles.”
So, apart from a high SPF sunscreen, what other skincare ingredients pass the anti-ageing test?
Anti-ageing ingredients to look out for ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants have become common ingredients in anti-ageing skincare products because of their protective and nourishing qualities.
“The past 10 years have seen the use of an increasing number of antioxidants [such as green tea and caffeine] in skincare, as well as the development of more stable forms of others such as vitamin C,” explains Dr Hunt.
Essentially, antioxidants penetrate the top layers of the skin to revitalise and protect, reduce inflammation and
shield against sun damage and skin cancers. They fight against free radicals, the chemical particles which can accelerate the appearance of ageing after exposure to sun, smoking and pollution.
“Examples of antioxidants include vitamin C, vitamin E, nicotinamide [vitamin B3], alpha lipoic acid, N-acetylglucosamine, coenzyme Q10 [CoQ10] and green tea,” says Dr Hunt. RETINOIDS
Retinoids are some of the best ingredients to include in anti-ageing products because they help to increase skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, so the skin looks fresher and maintains its elasticity.
“[Retinoids] are natural or synthetic forms of vitamin A that include tretinoin [a prescription item] and retinol [in a number of over-the-counter preparations],” explains Dr Hunt.
“These modulate cell turnover and differentiation, trap free radicals and stimulate the production of new collagen [the main support structure of skin which keeps it looking firm and plump].”
Retinoids have been shown to improve the appearance of fine lines, dark spots, texture and tone, resulting in smoother skin.
AHAS (ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS)
AHAs, also known as fruit acids, help to exfoliate and strip away the dead and damaged outer layer of skin cells to reveal the fresher, plumper skin
that lies beneath. There are several types of AHAs, but glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most commonly used in anti-ageing products.
“[AHAs] also stimulate the production of new collagen and increase the thickness of the dermis, thereby increasing skin firmness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. They also reduce blotchiness by dispersing pigment,” explains Dr Hunt.
PEPTIDES
The amino acids which make up the proteins in the skin, peptides are known to help regenerate the skin and stimulate collagen and elastin production. “Newer, more effective peptides have been developed, which mimic normal cell signals that can repair or inhibit the processes that accelerate skin ageing,” says Dr Hunt.
HYALURONIC ACID
The beauty of hyaluronic acid lies in its ability to replenish moisture and leave skin looking firmer and plumper. “It restores volume and the youthful appearance to the skin,” says Dr Nina Wines. “As the skin gets damaged, hyaluronic acid content decreases and skin loses its ability to retain water.”
It works on the epidermis to hydrate skin for longer, as well as stimulate collagen production and increase skin volume, which diminishes as we age.
How to choose the right products for you
Developing a consistent skincare regimen that works for you is the most important step, but how do you decide between the variety of serums, creams and oils on the market?
“A number of factors should be taken into consideration, including skin type [dry vs oily], skin sensitivity, weather and season, and your working and living environments [for example, if you have air-conditioning],” says Dr Michelle Hunt.
Ideally, a moisturiser and a serum should be used during the day, along with sunscreen. Serums are lighter and more highly concentrated than moisturisers, which means they can deliver the active ingredients deeper into the skin. “Serums may not be the best choice for people with skin conditions that weaken the skin barrier [eczema or rosacea], as they may penetrate too quickly, causing irritation,” advises Dr Hunt.
Creams often come in a range of formulations for different skin types, so you are able to choose the one which answers your need.
“The increased hydration that a cream provides is ideal for aged or dry skin,” says Dr Hunt. “Night creams tend to be thicker to counteract moisture loss during the night.” AWW