Which peel does what?

1PROFESSIONAL PEELS There are several different types of peels used by dermatologists and salon professionals, which are usually categorised into three main groups: light, medium and deeper peels. “Peels have evolved in their efficiency so they’re not as harsh and have numerous other benefits,” says celebrity facialist Jocelyn Petroni. “Peels are now formulated [to] make their molecules more efficient, with less trauma and inflammation caused to the skin.”

The prices of peels depend on the ingredient and amount used, and the practitioner or professional the patient goes to. A superficial or light peel usually costs between $100 and $150, but medium or deeper peels can exceed $500.

Light: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

● such as glycolic and lactic acid, and mandelic acid. Light or superficial peels usually involve a low dose of these ingredients, which will help to exfoliate the surface of the skin without major side effects. They can be used to treat acne, minor sun damage, enlarged pores and dullness. Superficial peels have minimal down time, with some patients experiencing transient redness, dryness and skin flaking for one to two days following the procedure.

● Medium: Jessner peel consists of three active components with various modifications: lactic acid (assists in the exfoliation of the skin); salicylic acid (helps with penetration); and resorcinol (antiseptic and antiinflammatory). Medium-level peels are used to treat sun damage, pigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles. Patients should expect longer down times with these peels – up to a week, in some cases.

● Deep: Trichloroacetic acid

(TCA) an analogue of acetic and salicylic acids. “Deeper peels are reserved for

individuals with fair skin who present with conditions requiring deep skin repair,” says Dr Sheridan. These may include advanced ageing, severe photo damage, furrows and wrinkles, and facial scarring. “Patients undergoing such peels must be accepting of more prolonged down time and follow post-treatment care instructions meticulously,” he says.

Depending on the concentration of ingredients, patients may experience redness, flaking and skin tightness for 10-14 days following the peel. Skin irritation, scarring and infections are some of the risks associated.

“Deep peels should be approached with extreme caution by those with darker skin types and those who tan easily,” says Dr Sheridan. “By definition, they deliver deep effects upon the skin and there is generally a period of significant post-treatment inflammation during the recovery phase. If this is excessive or mishandled, there is a consequent risk of post-inflammatory hypo- or hyperpigmentation, which is often long standing and may at times be permanent.”

2 DIY PEEL PRODUCTS

If you prefer a less expensive alternative which doesn’t require a salon or dermatologist visit, there are numerous peel products on the market. And with the development of technology, many of these peel skincare products will give you great results. “Products designed for home use will often have a place in the context of a well-considered skincare regimen,” says Dr Sheridan. “Individuals should initially select high quality AHA/glycolic acid products that will encourage healthy skin cell turnover and renewal. These products can be especially satisfying to use as you have personal control over their use.”

However, these peel products should be introduced gradually to ensure the skin doesn’t become irritated.