Beauty: why cleansers are crucial for your skin

A good scrub with soap and water may have done the job when you were young, but as your skin matures, an effective facial cleanser is essential for soft and supple skin. Sheree Mutton looks at the different choices of cleanser around and the pitfalls of o

Healthy skin begins with a good skin routine and this includes the vital step of cleansing once or twice a day. Failing to wash your face properly can lead to skin irritation, clogged pores and acne breakouts. A quality facial cleanser helps remove make-up and dirt, purifying the skin without stripping it of its natural oils – which is especially important for older skin.

“The ideal facial cleanser is pH matched to the skin, fragrance free, moisturises as it cleanses and is environmentally friendly,” says Melbourne dermatologist Dr

Adam Sheridan.

“Your age, skin type and any co-existing dermatological conditions are all considerations when selecting the best facial cleanser.”

Cleansers also help to prepare the skin for serums and moisturisers that will deliver hydration, antioxidants and sun protection.

Choosing the best cleanser for you largely depends on your skin type. “For dry and/or sensitive skin, look for cleansers labelled ‘gentle’, ‘soapfree’, or ‘hypoallergenic’,” says Sydney dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides. “These tend to be milky or creambased cleansers.

“For oily or acneprone skin, look for active cleansers that contain ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids [AHAs], such as glycolic acid or lactic acid; beta hydroxy acids [BHAs], such as salicylic acid; polyhydroxy acids [PHAs]; witch hazel; benzoyl peroxide; or azelaic acid. These tend to be gelor water-based cleansers.”

Cleansing wipes

Make-up remover and cleansing wipes have been popular for decades, particularly because they suit busy women and are inexpensive.

“Wipes are a convenient and practical option when one needs to cleanse ‘on the run’, especially when there is not an ample water supply,” says Dr Sheridan. “They do, however, tend to be harsher than other modes of cleansing and do little to rehydrate the skin.

“On a day when these are used, it is especially important to use a pH balanced moisturising cleanser before bed if at all possible.” Dr Yiasemides recommends choosing towelettes which contain no preservatives to avoid any allergic

DID YOU KNOW? Traditional soaps raise the pH of the skin, giving a feeling of tightness and cleanliness, but in fact, the skin’s natural protective lipids have been removed.

reactions and sensitivities. Although most facial wipes are not very eco-friendly (they can clog landfill sites and pollute our waterways), you can find biodegradable wipes from brands such as Yes To and The Body Shop.

Oil cleansers

You may think that oil cleansers are an odd way to wash your face as they, in effect, use an oil to remove oil, make-up and dirt. Yet cleansing oils can be a super-hydrating way of cleaning your skin, particularly dry skin. “Oil cleansers are marketed as being of benefit in improving skin texture and lustre,” says

“Cleansing milks are said to benefit drier, irritated skin types.”

Dr Sheridan. “While undoubtedly helpful when used sparingly, they can congest the skin and contribute to acne and other unwanted conditions if too frequently or heavily applied.”

Cleansing milks

These have creamier formulas – made from an emulsion of fats and water – that are light and gentle on the skin. They are extremely hydrating and moisturising so are great for mature skin. “Cleansing milks are said to benefit drier, irritated skin types as they generally contain increased concentrations of emollient products [such as plant oils and shea butter] and may contain ingredients such as safflower oil which exert an antiinflammatory effect,” says Dr Sheridan.

Micellar water

With a quick swipe of micellar water on a cotton pad, make-up, oil and dirt lift off the skin. This is because ‘‘micelles” (tiny balls of cleansing oil molecules) act as a magnet. “Micellar water is based on new technology,” says Dr Yiasemides. “The micelles are active ingredients which remove impurities, make-up and oils without the need for hard rubbing.”

These cleansers, she says, don’t necessarily require water for rinsing, good news for conditions such as rosacea and dermatitis, where water may irritate the skin. Micellar water is a great option for oily skin and acne. AWW