Light AS A CLOUD
Do you want to indulge this winter without heavy puddings? Yes, it can be done. And here are a few tips on making dessert light and easy
Write a list of the signature puddings of winter and you’ll find many of them come with a northern European accent.
While this reflects the cultural background of so many families that have moved here, there is no doubt they are often rich and heavy, designed for a far more punishing winter climate than ours!
So the question I have been asking myself is: what are the winter comfort desserts that are right for this country where there’s seldom drifts of snow on the ground, a thick layer of ice on puddles or breath that billows like clouds of bonfire smoke?
How can we twist existing classic ideas, think of new combinations and play with what’s in season in Australia through winter to make desserts that give us the same sense of comfort, but without the feeling your stomach has just put on a 20kg overcoat?
Here are some ideas that banish the stodge of spotted dick, plum duff and jam rolypoly back to the dusty pages of Charles Dickens.
THE APPLES AND PEARS
The sweet lightness of winter fruits has to be a good place to start, whether it is pears poached with all those warm, comfortable, mulled flavours of winter like cinnamon, cloves and red wine or roasted with a drizzle of caramel or dark chocolate sauce. As pear also loves the summer sweetness of vanilla, there is another simple poaching solution to taking ripe fruit on a winter sun holiday.
The humble apple lends itself to so many treatments, whether hearty or elegant. Think of thin slices of brown sugar-dusted apple baked on a shop-bought puff pastry base made even lighter by pairing with a little dollop of rich but tangy crème fraîche or the addition of a summery herb like delicate lemon thyme leaves. And rather than a heavy crumble topping, think of making a punchy granola of roasted seeds and nuts sweetened by caramelised sugar and browned butter — so good sprinkled on pan-toasted apple wedges. Yes, you can have a little scoop of summery vanilla ice cream on top!
WINTER FRUITS
Apple is the traditional fruit of a classic tarte tatin but we can lighten it up for the local weather by dusting with a few leaves of fresh rosemary or change the fruit altogether. Make a version that sings with the rose water fragrance of quinces or slices of pineapple. These are among my favourite fruits for winter.
Also dump heavier pastry choices for another sheet of that puff pastry from the freezer. Here, too, touches like a little chilli in the pineapple caramel or some fresh mint shredded over the top will help with a perception of lightness. Even just roasting those quinces with red wine and cloves to serve with a dollop of fresh cream and halva gives some rosy summeriness to any winter feast. Limes and lemons are in their prime this time of year, so how about making a light fluffy lemon delicious with limes instead of lemons, or a little lime salad to spoon on top of a classic vanilla cheesecake. Fine shreds of lime leaf will add a little tropical exotica to this country favourite.
BRING SUMMER INTO WINTER
The partnership of fruit and cream is such a summer classic and it screams of warmer days. So don’t forget that classic summer desserts such as a creamy pannacotta can become a perfect vehicle to bring sweet summer happiness into even the darkest winter night. Just partner the pannacotta with wintry flavours like roast rhubarb dusted with orange zest or dried fruits stewed to plum-puddingy delight with spices and the warm flavours of sweet sherry or brandy. Or take your pannacotta a step further and make it with coconut or almond milk. Then a salad of charred barbecue pineapple with leaves of Thai basil or of caramelly burnt oranges can come into their own.
TAKE ME TO WARMER CLIMES
Little light touches like this can take a favourite winter dessert into something far less heavy, whether it’s putting lemon zest in your rice pudding as the Spanish do, or serving it with poached mandarins kissed with a few drops of orange flower water or covered with pomegranate jewels that you might soup-up with a rose water syrup. Tasting Middle Eastern flavours like that immediately makes me feel summery!
SHOCKOLATE
For me there is also something wonderfully reassuring about chocolate when the nights close in, but often winter chocolate desserts are just too much. There are two approaches to relieving this. Pick a lighter treatment for the chocolate, such as serving it lengthened with lots of air in a simple souffle or chocolate mousse, which you can then accessorise with anything from a smashed up bar of Cherry Ripe, Peppermint Crisp, Crunchie or Bounty (obviously match these to the chocolate you are using. Also use the best dark chocolate you can afford so you get maximum flavour hit for the minimum amount of sugar.
FREEZE DRIED OR FROZEN REMINDERS OF SUMMER
Alternatively, while summery fruits like raspberries, passionfruit and apricots are out of season you can easily bring their brightness to all your dishes by buying small packs of their freeze-dried powders.
These are cheap to ship when ordered online and a little goes a long way. A sprinkle of this fruity fairy dust will work magic on your chocolate desserts, making them instantly feel more summery! Good Aussie frozen berries can also provide the same flavour hit. Think of using them still frozen, perhaps even smashed into a crumble of berry seeds to spoon on your plates.
JUST SERVE LESS
I have to admit, however, that I refuse to give up all those classic winter chocolate desserts altogether. So how about serving a smaller dollop of that rich self-saucing chocolate pudding but brightened with a little sour cream (or even make a sour cream ice cream if you are feeling adventurous) or with more of those pomegranate seeds.
If you want to feel even more virtuous, think of adding an ice cream made with little more than frozen blackened bananas blitzed into the world’s simplest ice cream. And then, of course, in August blood oranges hit the shelves to bring their ruby tones and sweet tangy juice to liven up any chocolate party.
The same less-is-more approach can be taken with many of our favourite winter desserts where a slice steamed mandarin pudding or slice of Italian orange drizzle cake can become the warm doona to cosset a fresh salad or poached compote of the matching fruit. Or think of making chocolate fondants or sticky toffee puddings in mini muffin tins to keep those winter carbs to a minimum when partnered with a bowl of your favourite ice cream.
As for golden syrup dumplings, leave them be. Some winter desserts are always going to be perfect just as they are!