Sweet taste of real ruby

Does the world’s fourth natural chocolate live up to the hype?

ON SEPTEMBER 5 last year Swiss company Barry Callebaut turned the cocoa world on its head when it introduced the world’s fourth natural chocolate variety – ruby.

Derived from the ruby cacao bean, the resulting chocolate – the first new variety to be introduced in more than 80 years – is millennial pink with what is described as a “sweet yet sour” berry taste. And it’s fast muscling out its sweet sisters white, milk and dark to become one of the most sought-after ingredients for chocolate makers around the world.

Australia got its first taste when Nestle launched KitKat Sublime Ruby from its Melbourne Chocolatory.

But now it’s available to taste in its pure form. San Churro became Australia’s first retailer to offer a Real Ruby range, which includes truffles, rocky road, decorated ruby bars and a Real Ruby Chocolate dining experience at selected stores around the country.

The facts

While it’s considered to be on the lighter end of the chocolate spectrum, San Churro’s ruby chocolate contains 47 per cent cocoa – that’s significantly more than both its milk, which is 36 per cent cocoa, and white, which has 30 per cent cacao butter.

The bright pink colour is naturally occurring care of the ruby cacao bean, as is the berry flavour.

Award-winning chocolatier and pastry maker Tim Clark has been working with San Churro to nail its ruby range for months.

“Ruby is creamy and with light berry notes,” he said.

“It pairs really well with champagne and lighter flavoured additions that don’t overpower the ruby. It brings out the best in praline and is great with passionfruit.”

The verdict

Before trying ruby, I taste the white chocolate to get a sense of where the flavour spectrum starts. Disclaimer: I’m not a fan of white chocolate, I usually find it too sweet so given that ruby is up next I’m not sure I’m going to like it.

Holding the piece of ruby it’s clear the texture is less creamy than its white predecessor. It also smells less sugary.

“There’s always an urge to consume chocolate really fast,” Clark warns. “But it’s best to put the chocolate between the roof of your mouth and your tongue and then let it slowly melt to appreciate the flavour.”

While ruby is definitely sweet, it’s less so than white – in fact, I’d say it’s more in line with milk chocolate sugar levels. And the berry flavour punches in really quickly.

It’s hard to believe that there are no strawberries or raspberries used.

That berry note also lends a hint of sourness, which helps it feel less “sickly” for fellow nonwhite chocolate lovers.

So does ruby live up to the hype? If you are a fan of berry flavours and like a lighter chocolate, the answer is a firm yes.

For more expert tips, visit lifestyle.com.au.