CRUNCH TIME IN TOP END
WHETHER YOU’RE CHASING CROCS, WATERFALLS OR A BARGAIN, THIS IS THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO DISCOVER DARWIN
In the top end of Australia, summer is the wet season.
It’s very hot, very humid and the heavens have a habit of unleashing, drenching the thirsty landscape and sending tourists scurrying.
That unique spectacle – along with the lack of crowds – is exactly why you should buck the trend and explore Darwin and its doorstep in what’s considered the off-season.
Although you can count on the weather forecasting thunderstorms most days, they are generally late in the afternoon or evening, leaving plenty of time for your adventures.
The days can be beautifully sunny, albeit a little humid. It’s nothing a dip in one of the local watering holes won’t fix.
Prices are considerably reduced from peak periods and the popular tourist attractions are almost deserted and sporting a much more relaxed vibe – if that’s possible.
Being invited to visit at this time of year to film with travel television show The Great
Australian Doorstep opened my eyes to a whole new aspect of the region, starting with the ultimate rainy day plan: shopping.
Our first stop is Aboriginal Bush Traders on the Esplanade in Darwin City. It’s tucked inside Lyons Cottage, an old stone building built in 1925, and filled with authentic indigenous products.
You can spend ages meandering through the rooms looking at the incredible pieces, from Aboriginal art to didgeridoos.
Their latest product is handwoven baskets made from discarded fishing nets known as “ghost gear”. To prevent them becoming landfill, they hand-dye and weave the nets with recycled fabrics.
Next we visit Paspaley Pearls, a family owned company founded in 1935, a pioneer of the Australian South Seas pearling industry. Their jewellery is exquisite.
Savour the air-conditioning in their beautiful showroom in Darwin’s town centre and be served sparkling mineral water and Moet champagne while you browse.
A short stroll down the mall is another visitor favourite, di Croco – meaning “Of Crocodile”. If you are interested in crocodile products, this shop has it all, including bags, belts and earrings.
After a full day of retail therapy, a cool hotel room and a dip in the pool is a welcome prospect.
There is a great selection of hotels available in Darwin that cater for pretty much any budget, but if you are after something special you can score great off-peak rates at Sky City Casino and Hotel.
My room steps out on to a private deck, with access to the oasis that is the new lagoon pool.
The property also boasts a stunning infinity pool facing Mindil Beach, which is the perfect spot for a cocktail as you watch the sun go down.
For a casual dinner, look no further than Frying Nemo. Located on Tipperary Waters Marina with picnic tables and a great atmosphere, Frying Nemo was recently voted Australia’s Best Fish and Chip Shop by the National Seafood Industry.
Our meal is served in basic cardboard boxes, but consists of the freshest fish, rustic-style chips and a smorgasbord of tantalising seafood.
No trip to Darwin is complete without venturing out of the city to its spectacular outback surrounds, including Kakadu National Park, Litchfield National Park and the Katherine Gorge.
There are plenty of tour operators who are eager to take you on short or longer excursions to the bush.
We opt for the Litchfield Park and the Jumping Crocs tour, a reasonably priced full-day adventure that covers off a number of experiences.
The day starts early with a hotel pick-up, along with about 15 other keen tourists.
On the drive out to Adelaide River, tour guide Rob keeps a running commentary of interesting facts and pieces of history about Darwin and the indigenous people. His
entertaining stories ensure the hour-long bus ride flies by.
First stop is the Humpty Doo Pub. Made famous by Ted Egan in his song Humpty Doo
Boy and Slim Dusty’s Humpty Doo Waltz, people flock here for a cold drink at the bar and a photo outside.
Next is the Adelaide River and the Jumping Crocs tour led by long-time local Pat “Croc Man”.
In bare feet (apparently he has never owned shoes) and armed with a gun and knife (“that’s not a knife” kind of knife), both for just in case of course, Pat leads you down to the river and on to a small tin boat.
He is constantly watching his surroundings and issuing warnings to the tour group. You may not see them, but there are crocodiles everywhere he assures us.
It’s not long before Pat has monstrous 6m crocs jumping out of the water just inches from the alternately amazed and terrified guests’ faces.
A few hours with Pat and his jumping crocs will leave you with a new respect for these prehistoric creatures and better awareness of crocodile safety – handy if you’re visiting anywhere in the top end of Australia where crocodiles are prevalent.
From croc-infested waters to the lush Litchfield National Park, it’s time to brave that water in one of the most famous places to swim outside Darwin.
During the wet season, the waterfalls are at capacity and a spectacular sight by ground or, even better, a helicopter flight.
There is accommodation in the township of Batchelor as well as camping facilities within the park for those with more time.
You’ll find plenty of places to pause and explore in the 1500sq km park, with Wangi Falls, Buley Rockhole and Florence Falls among the favourites.
The cool temperatures of the waterfalls are a refreshing escape from the summer humidity.
There’s nothing better than swimming out to the point where the misty spray meets the pool below, enjoying a refreshing rain shower made by nature. Read more at Jules Ingall Photography on Facebook or Instagram.