Honey stands the heat

IT’S A simple observation that any cook will make: caramelised honey is far tastier than caramelised sugar. If you’re unconvinced, remember that honeycomb is distinctly more delicious than praline.

The reasons for this are quite complex. Honey and sugar are actually very closely related, but it comes down to something really simple: you get different results when elements are bonded together, as opposed just loosely mixed.

Sucrose is made of two smaller sugars, fructose and glucose, chemically joined to make the new molecule. Honey is a blend of fructose and glucose, as well as small amounts of other exotic sugars like maltose. The difference in construction means very different things happen when you heat them up.

Sugar caramelises. That means when you heat it above 160C the thick melted syrup begins to darken and its flavour changes to include complex nutty and buttery notes.

Honey also caramelises, although at much lower temperatures, starting at just 110C. Indeed, you need to be careful because it’s not hard to overcook. However, if you have kitchen courage, there’s a next step which gets really interesting.

Because the sugars in honey are mixed not bound, and because honey also contains protein, at about 140C a second chemical reaction begins, called the Maillard reaction.

In this process, the sugars and proteins both break down, then intermingle, forming hundreds of really interesting and complex new molecules that have an incredible array of aromas.

If you haven’t tried burnt honey, then there’s a world of amazing tastes coming your way. A heavy-based saucepan, a digital thermometer and some culinary fortitude are all you need to explore a whole new world of flavour.

IN THIS PROCESS, THE SUGARS AND PROTEINS BOTH BREAK DOWN, THEN INTERMINGLE, FORMING HUNDREDS OF REALLY INTERESTING AND COMPLEX NEW MOLECULES...