Savour flavour of HK’s charms
ONE of the most thrilling parts of flying into Hong Kong in the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s was the world-famous approach to Kai Tak airport, in the heart of the city.
Hong Kong is hemmed in by mountains and skyscrapers, so pilots needed to make a lowaltitude 47-degree visual right turn, often while battling strong crosswinds, to line up with the tight runway that jutted out into Victoria Harbour.
It was a heart-stopping introduction to the densely populated city, which had more markets than Michelin stars and was just beginning to transition from manufacturing hub to booming financial centre.
No one tries to land a plane at Kai Tak any more – the government closed the airport in 1998 – and travellers now touch down in a suitably staid fashion at the purpose-built Chek Lap Kok, a good 30 minutes’ taxi ride from central Hong Kong.
So Hong Kong is safer now, with a strong contingent of multinational headquarters and luxury shopping brands, but it’s far from boring.
Look close and the charm is still there in the idiosyncratic markets, local bus rides that take you far from the skyscrapers and deep into mountainous terrain, and the many restaurants that still offer authentic Cantonese food (steamed chicken feet, anyone?) in tandem with Western fare. You just need to know where to look.
Much of the action in Hong Kong takes place on opposing sides of the harbour at Central or Kowloon. The best way to cross the harbour is via the iconic Star Ferry. The ride is cheap (less than $1 each way) and fast – you’ll be on the other side in less than 10 minutes.
The main tourist attraction at Central is The Peak funicular tram that has been transporting travellers and locals to the top of Victoria Peak mountain since 1888. It’s a great view, especially on a clear day, and there are walks through forested terrain offering glimpses of stunning local birdlife.
The 3.5km Peak Circle Walk is not too taxing and offers extensive views of Victoria Harbour and Kowloon.
Central is also home to some great Eastern and Western
food, with many modern restaurants including a fusion of both. The SoHo District of Central is particularly popular for bars and clubs and the Wan Chai district on the edge of Central offers mouth-watering traditional Chinese food.
Indisputably the tourist heartland of Hong Kong, Kowloon is a lively mix of old and new. Its huge footprint extends
right to the edge of Victoria Harbour, making the promenade a popular place for an evening walk.
Make sure you hang around long enough to catch the Symphony of Lights show at 8pm, a nightly harbourside spectacle of light and sound set against the backdrop of the city’s skyscrapers.
There are museums and cultural
attractions near the harbour, including the excellent Hong Kong Museum of History and the dome-shaped planetarium, the Hong Kong Space Museum.
Then, of course, there is the shopping – legendary in Hong Kong. Fans of luxury goods will love the top-tier stores in Tsim Sha Tsui, but most tourists head to the numerous Mong
Kok markets to get their haggle on. Here, market stalls are packed on top of each other, making it hard to walk away quickly from touts determined to sell you a fake Gucci belt.
There are some great buys to be had – more tat than topshelf, mind you – but that’s half the fun.