Pumpkin in paradise
Get a group of friends together and you can take over the island
THE Sunset Lounge is squatting in the sand like a cheeky crab, and I am squinting into the setting sun, watching a roast pumpkin sunset plummet over mainland Australia.
I am on Pumpkin Island, in Queensland’s Keppel group on the Southern Great Barrier Reef, which is so sanguine even the welcome sign can’t be bothered spelling out the full word, instead it shortens it to “Isld”.
I perch at the bar, clutch a watermelon martini, and consider my surrounds and statistics. Current island population, including me: 13. Length of island: 450 metres. Width: 150 metres. Satisfaction level: 100 per cent.
Even better, had I wished, I could have rented out this entire paradise for myself for a total cost of $2220 a night. If I invite 25 mates (a sanctioned total of 10 adults and 16 children), this would break the expense down to $85 a night.
Here, we could spread ourselves out over five cottages and two bungalows with delicious names such as Ocean Bungalow, Pebble Point, Tropical Tides, Coco Pines and Oyster Rocks.
Or, on this occasion like my fellow travellers, rent individual cottages starting from $385 a night up to $600.
I have tossed away my timepiece and replaced it with the tides. At 11am, I shall snorkel with the turtles; when the water is at its lowest ebb, I will snatch an oyster knife from my fully-stocked kitchen and head for the exposed rocks for a free feast; and by 4pm, when the tide is turning, I plan to kayak over pristine reef.
I jump aboard the island’s speedboat, leaping into the water at Middle Island, sandwiched between Pumpkin and Keppel, to snorkel with a 35kg estuary cod among other flirty fish, before returning for a second snorkel at Little Pumpkin Island.
In this underwater garden it’s an emerald Eden of coral, shades of magnificent moss and luscious limes. Even the turtles here are green.
Back in my cottage, I peel plump Keppel Bay prawns for lunch. There are no restaurants on Pumpkin Island, rather, you bring your own food over on the boat, or arrange for catering. The Waterline Restaurant, at Keppel Bay Marina, will pack you three fabulous feasts per day, in an Esky delivered straight to your door.
But things haven’t always been so laid-back on this slice of sand. Between 2012 and 2015, it was better known as Fourex Island, used for competitions and promotions by the Queensland beer brand and a retreat for the State of Origin team.
Cast back even further, and the island was the subject of a former oyster lease until 1961.
A colourful character named Snigger Findley owned the oyster lease but a fisherman wanted to buy the island. Findley and the fisherman made a bet over poker: if the fisherman won, Findley had to sell him the island.
The fisherman won, bought Pumpkin Island for 65 pounds and the first guest arrived in 1964.
These days, it’s the only resort along the entire Great Barrier Reef that is completely off the grid, and it offsets 150 per cent of its annual carbon emissions. But don’t be fooled, this is still a barefoot luxury experience.
The writer travelled as a guest of Southern Great Barrier Reef Tourism and Pumpkin Island. More at escape.com.au.