The Chronicle

Bundts: The hole truth

- ED HALMAGYI

IN THE Jewish kitchens of Central Europe, ring-shaped cakes have a long and rich history.

Originally used for a fruit-studded yeast cake known as gugelhopf, the moulds were crafted from copper, brass and tin in a wide array of elaborate designs, patterns that would transfer to the cake.

These cake pans were not only beautiful, they also solved an engineerin­g challenge that had beset cooks for generation­s. Rich and sweet cakes, particular­ly those like babka, would fail to bake through properly to the centre. You would either have a cooked centre with a burnt or dry edge, or a perfect edge encasing an under-baked middle.

Traditiona­lly, cooks would attempt to solve this problem by dousing the dried edges of the cake with syrup when removed from the oven.

However, the right answer turned out to be obvious — simply remove the complicate­d part. And so the idea of a bundkuchen, or ring cake, was born. And yes, they are pretty, but the real key to the moulds was not their distinctiv­e beauty, but rather the piece that was missing — the hole.

The ring shape mould, known as a toroid, is not limited to heavy recipes or old-fashioned yeast goods.

In fact, with greater surface area most cake formulas will develop extra flavour when baked.

You also have the opportunit­y to look at refining recipes to include a greater amount of fruit or vegetable content without sacrificin­g texture. A richer carrot cake, a better zucchini bread, more succulent apple cake, or even a beetroot cake.

Yes, beetroot. Although it usually ends up as a slice on a burger, beetroot is naturally sweet and works really well in desserts and cakes. A generous amount of vanilla and some ricotta for creaminess and your new favourite treat is ready.

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