Discover the secrets of the Scottish highlands

A PLACE OF STORIES, SILENCES, AND WHITE SAND

The Scottish Highlands, in my humble opinion, is probably the most beautiful place in all the world.

In 2010, I was sitting in a pub at the end of the world when I met a Scot named Chris.

He had a thick accent and an even thicker beard to accompany his thick forearms.

Telling him of my love for secluded spots (evidenced by me being in this particular pub), I hoped to hear something unexpected.

I was not disappointed.

Chris shared with me a secret he said he rarely imparted to outsiders; he told me to go to Achmelvich.

Without further explanation, he left me and returned to whatever he does to get those forearms.

Getting to Achmelvich means taking the A837 through the county of Sutherland and skirting the shores of Loch Assynt.

Overlooking this lonesome loch, stands the ruins of Ardvreck castle as a testament to what happens if you betray Scottish hospitality.

Dating back to 1490, the castle was owned by the Macleods of Assynt.

During the English Civil War, the wife of the owner betrayed a Royalist who sought sanctuary at the castle.

Long story short, the Royalist was executed, the castle was attacked and captured by the Mackenzies 22 years later, and eventually burned.

It has been a ruin ever since, perched on this sad shore, looking mournful and hauntingly beautiful at the same time.

The Sutherland Peninsula with its majestic views, gives way to winding sandy roads before opening on a marvellous sight — the bright white beach and turquoise waters of Achmelvich.

When I stepped onto the toasty sand on a beautiful Scottish summer’s day, all alone, except for a handful of jellyfish in the shallows, I understood why Chris would keep this place a secret.

For the next couple of hours, I felt intensely grateful to him for letting an outsider in and allowing me to experience the silence and beauty of his secret Scotland.