WILD AND WONDROUS

A LEISURELY TWO-AND-A-HALF HOURS FROM SYDNEY, THIS IMMACULATE PIECE OF MOTHER NATURE’S WORK TAKES YOU A WORLD AWAY

Humans need the tonic of the wild.

While we are eager to explore and learn everything, we require all things be mysterious and unexplorable.

Two-and-a-half hours north of Sydney is Port Stephens, a pocket of sublime beauty where the land and the sea are indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomable.

In any other country, Port Stephens would be considered a national treasure.

But lucky for you, the gorgeous bay and its beaches fly seemingly under Australia’s radar.

The very small amount of development across the region gives the place enough to do without it being either brazen or boring.

Port Stephens is by far one of the most naturally gifted and understated places for a beach holiday.

It is so picturesque and diverse you can’t help but assume that Mother Nature herself is smugly impressed by her work.

The thing about Port Stephens is that it feels incredibly remote even though you’re still so close to society. People say “good morning” while out on their morning walks and locals walk barefoot everywhere.

But don’t let the humble description fool you: Port Stephens is sensational.

There is never nothing to look at, never nothing to do.

And if you’re thinking about holding off visiting until the thick heat of summer settles in, think again.

Although winter may have you hiding under a blanket with an endless supply of peppermint and ginger tea, Port Stephens is the unexpected destination that will cure those chilly blues.

In spring, the port offers a relaxing and revitalising getaway without those pesky summer tourist crowds.

Perhaps one of the most convincing reasons to visit in the cooler months is that it’s home to some of the best whale watching on the eastern coast of Australia.

From May to September, whales migrate north right past Port Stephens’ doorstep, and getting out on the bay for a glimpse is a show to behold. Like great actors, whales dominate the space they’re in and you are easily overwhelmed by their sheer magnitude.

Their monumental power and awe-inducing presence will take the entire boat by surprise. For a simple one-and-a-half-hour mosey around with likely sightings, try Moonshadow Cruises.

While out on the bay watch for gannets. With wings like spitfires, they twist and turn in the air before dive-bombing into the water to catch a fish.

The dolphins are absurdly handsome and fur seals serenade onlookers from their rocky outposts. The combination of the birds, the whales and the dolphins make for one of those moments where nature stuns you.

If you prefer the safety of dry land and some more stable footing, the Australian Shark and Ray Centre is a great option to spend a few hours out of the sun.

You’ll even get close enough to play, feed and touch the sharks and rays.

If the whales and dolphins are the most awe-inspiring things under the water, then the sand dunes are the most awe-inspiring things above it.

Seemingly out of nowhere, gigantic dunes rise triumphantly from the beach, standing tall and bare, stretching as far as the eye can see.

Consider a visit to the Worimi Conservation Lands, the 4200-hectare site managed by the Worimi people, the traditional owners of the land in Port Stephens.

The Worimi are proud of their heritage, their cultural practices and their sacred and significant sites.

If you are eager for some adrenalin-based

activities while you’re there, take a 4WD or quad bike tour of the dunes.

Port Stephens is a surprisingly large region, more than double the size of Sydney Harbour, and it incorporates a huge range of landscapes and towns.

There is sleepy Tanilba Bay, family friendly Salamander Bay, stylish Soldiers Point, chic Shark Bay and, of course, touristy Nelson Bay.

Towering above them all is Tomaree Headland.

Grab your sneakers and head up the track for unbeatable vistas of the region.

It’s the perfect way to work up an appetite for some of the incredible cafes and restaurants peppered throughout the port.

Perched on the rise overlooking d’Albora Marina and with water glimpses of the Bay, The Little Nel is worth a visit for the coffee alone.

With fresh ingredients, a fresh approach and a fresh location, The Little Nel is a big must for your Port Stephens bucket list.

Rick Stein’s eponymous seafood restaurant, Rick Stein at Bannisters, is a stand-alone reason to visit Port Stephens.

No, Rick wasn’t there. Yes, I asked.

The iconic Shoal Bay Country Club has had a dazzling makeover with sunny white-washed walls, striped awnings and pastel interiors.

If you’re after a relaxed sun-soaked meal to herald in an afternoon of sipping cocktails over the water, this is the place for you.

And then hidden among the trees along the shores of Little Beach is the Bay’s best-kept secret.

Little Beach Boathouse is a restaurant up top and a bar below, and the good food and drink is equally matched by its outstanding views and easy-going vibes.

Be sure to keep an eye out for some of the resident dolphins frolicking in the water below.