COW OF A NIGHT IN YORKSHIRE

THE WONDERFUL DALES ARE ONE OF ENGLAND’S BEST KEPT SECRETS FOR AUSTRALIAN VISITORS

Here we are on a road trip through lovely Yorkshire, admiring the hills and dales of England’s largest county, looking out for our pre-booked hotel.

The roads in this part of the country don’t inspire fast driving, so we have time to look around, stop for the occasional coffee (please, where are the espresso machines?) and take a few happy snaps of sheep and cows grazing in the lush fields. It’s relaxing, easy driving on “our” side of the road after living dangerously in Italy.

The GPS guides us to the end of a village called West Witton, and there it is. The Wensleydale Heifer in all its glory. A typical 15th century inn, lovingly restored yet retaining its medieval coach-house look. This looks promising and we wonder about the name. Where did that come from? We soon find out.

The Heifer is, indeed, a tribute to the bovine species with cow motifs everywhere, an acknowledgement of the importance of the dairy industry in the Yorkshire Dales, where hairy highland cattle and primitivelooking sheep roam contentedly, seemingly accustomed to the vagaries of northern England’s severe climate with their woolly coats.

We’re shown to our room, the “Heifer Room”, to be greeted by a large painting of a happy cow above the bed; on the bed is a cuddly toy resembling a Disney character with fluffy horns. The theme is even carried through to cow mugs beside a flagon of milk, strawberry syrup and a mixer to create udderly delicious milkshakes. In the spacious bathroom there’s no escape, either, with cows watching your every move. You are not alone.

Downstairs there are two bar/lounges where guests and locals gather with their yorkies and labradors – after all, this is a pub at heart – and two dining areas for both informal and fine dining options. It’s no surprise to learn that the Wensleydale Heifer has an award-winning chef who specialises in seafood from the Yorkshire coast and fresh local produce. Although at this point it might be better not to mention anything about beef or lamb in case our bedroom menagerie takes offence.

The Heifer serves as an ideal base for drives and walks in the lovely Dales, one of England’s best kept secrets for Australian visitors (most road trippers here are domestic tourists who would probably prefer to keep this place to themselves).

Over a few days we explore the countryside including the dramatic Aysgarth Falls and its easy 3km forest trail; the creamery at pretty Hawes where the famous Wensleydale cheese is produced (there are free tastings); the impressive 14th century Bolton Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned for six months in 1568 (we wonder if she took advantage of the guided tours and falconry displays); and the village of Leyburn with several friendly pubs and that most welcome of modern facilities, a laundrette.

The Yorkshire Dales area is quite extensive with many quaint villages and castles, a fascinating if somewhat bloody history dating back before Roman times and, best of all, some of the most enjoyable walking country in England – as long as you dress for any change of weather during the day. But don’t be cowed by this, it’s really worth the effort. And that’s no bull.