The Chronicle

WHY NOT TRY COMPANION PLANTING?

WORKING WITH NATURE MAY IMPROVE GROWTH AND YIELDS

- THE GARDEN BECKONS WORDS: MIKE WELLS wellsleyho­rticultura­l@gmail.com

WHEN it comes to fully understand­ing the myriad of natural processes and interactio­ns in a garden, I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t.

There’s no doubt that (in my very limited understand­ing) “Newtonian” science can explain the vast majority of these by analysing processes and building concepts that our left brain (logical bit) understand­s, but there’s an opposite, right brain, “direct experience” view (creative, reflective bit), apparently championed by JW Goethe around 1800, which suggests that we must observe nature, its rhythms, and the interactio­ns of all natural processes, including cosmic influences, in order to gain some understand­ing of how our living world works.

Me? Well, I’m of the opinion that we, as humans on a flyspeck of fertile rock somewhere in the vastness of a limitless universe, are flat out comprehend­ing everything that happens around us, and that “nature” as we understand it, is bigger, more complex and more resilient than the sum of all of us (despite our best efforts to put a dent in it).

In simpler words, there are some natural processes in our gardens that some humans are lucky enough to perceive and understand, but they cannot be fully explained by logical, scientific reasoning.

Some examples of these processes include moon planting, biodynamic­s, and companion planting.

I have an extremely open mind to all of these concepts, and have, at times, dabbled in the sometimes-confusing matrix of combinatio­ns and permutatio­ns that is companion planting.

What is it?

Put simply, companion planting is based partly on science, partly on perception.

The science part uses known qualities of some plants to benefit some part of the growth process of another.

Examples of this may be to attract pollinator­s, lure or deter pests, provide physical support, or improve fertility by producing extra nutrition or encouragin­g beneficial soil life for the nearby companion.

The perception part is based on observatio­ns that some plants seem to grow better when planted near certain other plants, and that some will “sulk”, performing poorly when in close proximity to apparently antagonist­ic varieties.

As we’re in the middle of our summer with a probable warm autumn to follow, here’s a few companion planting suggestion­s for warm season veggies and herbs.

Plant basil to attract bees, and to repel white fly, aphids and fruit fly.

A dense planting in the tomato patch will apparently help with disease resistance and fruit flavour.

Beans are great soil nitrogen fixers, so a leaf crop such as lettuce or sugarloaf cabbage planted straight after they have been removed will do well.

Potatoes and beetroot are great growing companions for beans, as well as carrots, cucumbers and parsley.

Tomatoes, often difficult due to pests and disease attacks, are happiest when growing with carrots, chives, basil, and asparagus.

It seems that they shouldn’t be seen anywhere near brassicas (cabbages, etc.) as they don’t get on.

Carrots and sage, lettuce, and chives are reported to be compatible growing companions, but it’s best to avoid getting too close to parsnips and radishes.

Zucchinis and other squashes, pumpkins and melons, will all benefit from having beeattract­ing plants nearby, as they need good pollinatio­n to set fruit.

Plant borage, lavender, basil, thyme and fennel in close proximity.

Sweet corn doesn’t mind having potatoes, cucumbers, squashes, and beans nearby.

Actually, plant climbing beans as the cobs are being harvested, as the leftover corn stalks will act as trellises for the beans.

The beans will also renew the nitrogen taken from the soil by the very hungry corn plants.

Potatoes don’t like being closely planted with cucumbers, pumpkins, and tomatoes.

They much prefer the company of beans, cabbage and sweet corn.

Marigolds, while not a vegetable, are renowned for their ability to repel nasty nematodes that attack the roots of potatoes, tomatoes and roses, so every veggie patch should have these cheery warm season flowers planted as borders or near susceptibl­e plants.

It’s said that dogs so hate the odour of marigold leaves that they will not pee on a pot containing them.

(Might be useful for our very pee-ee new puppy, Apollo!)

Lettuce like marigolds too, and are happy to live alongside carrots, beetroot and strawberri­es.

Cucumbers are pretty happy with sweet corn, lettuce, beans and potatoes living beside them, and if you wish to grow tall sunflowers in the garden, they’ll do well in the filtered shade of these towering plants.

Celery’s scent is purported to deter the cabbage white butterfly, so plant your sugarloaf cabbages nearby.

It gets on well with tomatoes and beans, too.

Please remember that much of the informatio­n I’ve provided in this article is based on anecdotal evidence, and your results may vary from those suggested today.

What’s your experience with companion planting?

Please email me and I will be happy to pass this informatio­n on in future articles.

GARDEN CUTTINGS

Say g’day on my Facebook page: Mike Wells - Wellsley Horticultu­re or email your gardening questions (or article suggestion­s) to: wellsleyho­rticultura­l@gmail.com.

 ?? Pictures: Mike Wells ?? NATURE’S WAY: For lettuce as healthy as this duo, plant them near carrots, beetroot or strawberri­es.
Pictures: Mike Wells NATURE’S WAY: For lettuce as healthy as this duo, plant them near carrots, beetroot or strawberri­es.
 ??  ?? Leafy vegies such as these cabbage, lettuce and broccoli will benefit from being planted soon after a nitrogen-fixing crop such as peas or beans.
Leafy vegies such as these cabbage, lettuce and broccoli will benefit from being planted soon after a nitrogen-fixing crop such as peas or beans.
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