FRESH FLAVOUR

With a new look, mood and menu, you’ll barely recognise the Gold Coast’s longest-standing Japanese restaurant when it reopens next week

IF you noticed something going on in the oriental dwellings by the pool at QT recently, it was Japanese eatery Yamagen getting a major makeover.

Food and beverage operations manager Warren Lindsay says, considering venues should be reinvigorated every three to four years, the Japanese icon was definitely due after 30 years.

“What we’ve done is try to pay homage to what it used to be, because it’s such an institution on the Gold Coast we didn’t want to lose what it was,” he says.

“We’ve got Mitsuo Toshino, the godfather of Japanese dining who has been here 27 years, and manager Miyakawa Hiroshi who’s been here for 20 years.

“There’s a lot of heritage with what it is and what it was. That’s why we’ve kept the name but given it a new look and new concept.”

Three and a half months of interior renovations, menu innovations and a bar reimagination later, Yamagen is unveiled.

On entry, bold oriental doors slide open, revealing a gleaming bar brimming with bottles of spirits, and smartly dressed staff eager to shake up some fresh creations.

“The cocktails are presented in a way that I’ve never seen before. There are lots of little quirks that make them special,” Warren explains.

“We’re using some flavours that are traditional to Japan, such as the sudachi. Sudachi is a Japanese lime, not many people outside of Japan have ever heard of it, but it is so unique.

“It’s got the bite of citrus, but it’s also very earthy, quite floral as well and it’s kind of got coriander seed notes.”

Warren says the cocktail menu’s main role is to complement the cuisine.

“We’ve just launched the new menu and I am confident in saying it’s the best Japanese food I have ever had,” he says. “It’s a big call but we had our menu tasting last week and it’s just something else.”

Since you can’t visit until next Friday, here’s a taste of what’s to come.

Picture jalapeno hiramassa kingfish with ponzo laid out in a perfect circle with a fine sliver of jalapeno on each wedge and optional coriander in the centre.

Savour yellowfin tuna tartare with yuzu avocado sesame and wakame artfully arranged on ice with accessories.

“There’s not a lot of fusion but there’s some elements of fusion in some of the flavours and presentation,” Warren says.

“We do let the flavours shine for themselves, but there are ways we can help bring them out or accentuate them.

“It’s quite an extensive menu.

“It’s separated under traditional and a lot of new, fun things. There’s only four main dishes because we want everybody to share.

“It’s got a lot of heavy Japanese feel to it, but the way it’s presented is very unique and very fun, it’s a fun way of eating.”

Yamagen Izakaya, QT Hotel, 7 Staghorn Ave, Surfers Paradise, opens July 28