ADDICTED TO BASE

There’s a new contender for the Gold Coast’s best pizza, and this tiny Mermaid Beach restaurant has the home-town advantage

GOCCIA ITALIAN PIZZERIA 2375 GOLD COAST HWY, MERMAID BEACH

Book it: 5572 3008 IN Italian culture, food and family go together like olive oil and crusty bread; pasta and parmesan … me and mozzarella.

So it’s no surprise that it’s an easy, all-embracing warmth that defines the dining experience at Goccia, a little (but licensed) Italian pizzeria at Mermaid Beach.

You don’t need the accent to be welcomed at Anna Gazzola and Loris Perobello’s place, although it was common enough among guests on the night I dined.

With everything on the menu homemade from scratch, it’s one of the Gold Coast’s more authentic Italian offerings.

Confined inside on a chilly, rainy night, we’re only too happy to cuddle up alongside the Marana Forni pizza oven that dominates the kitchen. It’s imported from Loris’ home town of Verona. With the contented hum of conversation and rug-rats roaming while parents sip fluoro flutes of Aperol spritz, the 40-seat eatery feels cosy rather than cramped; a happy, vibrant family table.

In better weather, two sides of the corner shop are thrown open to the air with extra settings under string lights – a good bet for those seeking a romantic table for two.

To match the mood, the menu is loaded with pure culinary comfort. There are familiar flavours, but also some more adventurous dishes.

Artfully presented and unexpectedly tender octopus carpaccio ($19) – simply dressed in parsley and lemon – is one of these.

Blue-cheese dipping sauce initially drew me to a side of polenta chips, but I was won over by the texture. Achieving that light, creamy centre and evenly golden, crispy shell is no mean feat.

Goccia seems to share my aforementioned affection for cheese, which dominates the starter selection and suitably saturates the sprawling list of pizzas. Savour a silky smoked burrata with grilled zucchini, eggplant and capsicum ($16) or cool and creamy buffalo mozzarella with a sunset spectrum of heirloom tomatoes in a classic Caprese ($16). Share plates for two ($24) or four ($45) are loaded with Italian cheeses, meats and olives.

As for the pizzas, I tried the Bosco ($24), showing off a beautifully thin base, melty mozzarella, blue cheese, mushrooms and the salty pop of prosciutto. If you normally gravitate to meat lover’s, go for the Giosa ($23) which features a traditional bresaola (an airdried, salted beef).

There are also three pastas on the menu: a beef bolognese ragout ($18), maccheroni al pomodoro ($16) and a weekly special (like spinach and potato gnocchi with prawns and cherry tomatoes).

There’s not much chance of leaving hungry … or without an invitation to come back soon.