The Gold Coast Bulletin

GOOD NEIGHBOURS

With another worthy restaurant added to a mouthwater­ing multicultu­ral mix, foodie pocket Chirn Park is punching above its weight

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QUAN 55 & BAR 4/55 BROOKE AVENUE, SOUTHPORT Open: Dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm Book it: quan55.com.au or 5646 7381

WE all know a Southport or Labrador local fond of blurring the boundaries to claim a Chirn Park postcode.

There will be a few more guilty parties if this soughtafte­r slice of the CBD continues to grow in culinary cred.

Napoli Zero 81 Pizza Bar recently added its Italian influence to the mouthwater­ing melting pot, now Quan 55 & Bar is contributi­ng Vietnamese to the mix.

The new kid on the block is traditiona­l in spirit but modern in outlook, offering covered alfresco dining against sleek black tiling. Owners Wynn Huynh (pictured) and Thanh Tram provide warm, personal service befitting the neighbourh­ood vibe.

There’s a cover-most-bases drink’s list to match the mood evoked by snackable share plates. Brews range from XXXX Gold to Byron Bay Pale Ale, there’s wine by the conservati­vely priced Aussie bottle and most popular mixers, along with freshly squeezed cane juice. If you’re an espresso martini fan, try their bolder version made with Vietnamese Coffee, condensed milk, vodka and kahlua, or go out on a limb with The Man Drink — Martel VSOP, with distinctiv­e winter melon juice and mint leaves.

Each table is neatly set with chopsticks and cutlery, although certain dishes beg to get your hands involved.

My favourite of these is the traditiona­l salad wraps, including banh xeo style prawn and pork crepes to wrap in cool, crisp lettuce cups and dip in the astringent accompanyi­ng sauce ($12). Three fat pork and water chestnuts dumplings ($9) are a tribute to tradition, served with warm, crusty bread so you can mop up the rich tomato broth.

Snappily seasoned grilled and skewered pork balls ($8) rest on a daikon salad — healthier than most share plates, depending on the damage you’re doing on the drink front.

Also try marinated beef wrapped in betel leaf ($9) and spring rolls stuffed with taro, cabbage, carrots and glass noodles and served in paperlined wire baskets ($7).

While the menu is dominated by the clean, fragrant flavours typical of Vietnamese cuisine, the culture’s Indochines­e influence is evident too.

Arriving hissing and spitting in a cloud of lemongrass­scented steam is a sizzling, chilli-spiked beef and veg stirfry ($18). Whether you choose to order it mild or hot, it’ll leave a lasting impression.

The star attraction — pho — doesn’t let the team down. The famous Vietnamese noodle soup is a soul-soothing, belly warming prescripti­on of beef brisket, beef balls, slices of rare beef and Vietnamese mint ($15).

I embraced the share plates far too enthusiast­ically to make it to dessert, but if you get that far there’s the choice of chocolate spring rolls ($9), pandan jelly with coconut and pineapple ($8) and fried ice cream with seasonal fruit and a lick of chocolate sauce ($12).

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