NEW VIEW IN BURLEIGH

Grab a cocktail, order up on the share plates and settle in for some people watching at this elegant bar and dining room

RAGDOLL BAR & DINING LOUNGE

49 JAMES STREET, BURLEIGH HEADS

Open: Dinner Monday to Wednesday, lunch and dinner Thursday to Sunday

Book it: 3184 8891 HILL picnics remain hot property, but there’s a new wave of restaurants to savour in Burleigh. With a James Street perch for people watching and Instagram spruiking some seriously pretty plates, Ragdoll offers a refreshing change of scenery for that Sunday session.

The open-front restaurant is zoned to please everyone from lazy lunchers to the cocktail crowd, moving from chesterfield lounges where you can cuddle up for cosy drinks to more traditional linen-dressed tables. We pulled up a bar stool at the high tables for lunch — no booking required — finding we’d stumbled on an enticing cocktail special, a regular event before 5pm. So far, so good.

The lunch and dinner menu reads well, sprawling from softshelled crab tacos with a lick of Jalapeno mayonnaise ($18) to twice-cooked chilli quail ($17) and mustard and herb-crusted wagyu ($34).

Our party of two started with scallops, their soft subtlety set off by salty, crispy prosciutto and a saffron and cauliflower puree ($24 for four pieces).

Charred kangaroo loin ($18) is well-judged to medium rare and beautifully complemented by braised golden beetroot, black radish, Davidson plum and rosemary jus.

I was less enamoured with the ricotta and spinach gnocchi with mushrooms, basil butter and hazelnuts ($23). The dish is bursting with gorgeous, earthy flavour, but the basil butter isn’t saucy enough to balance the oversized morsels.

While it was easy to love the service from our genuinely warm and engaged waitress, there were pacing problems with the food, too.

With nearly 45 minutes wait between share plates, we had plenty of time to appreciate the cocktail special and an extra round of amaretto sours. And a coffee.

The issue had resolved by dessert, with almost instant gratification on the stunning salted caramel and chocolate mousse ($14). The drop-dead decadent dome is scattered with caramel popcorn and macarons, crystallised chocolate and purple petals.

Also on offer is a lemon meringue tart with summer berries, blood orange meringues and lavender ($14), bread and butter pudding with brioche, croissant and coconut gelati ($14), and an affogato ($15).

We ambitiously finished with a cheese plate ($28).

With three hefty wedges of cheese, fig jam, grapes and lavosh, it was easily enough fodder for four people.

When I visit again it will be with a group to order up on those platters and enjoy the outlook and cruisy vibe over a few cocktails.

If Ragdoll lets itself down in some areas it’s not for lack of talent or good intentions. Maybe they’re stretching themselves too thin trying to be everything to everyone.

If they pick a path they have the potential to be the crowdpleaser they aspire to.