ASIAN PERSUASIAN
This edgy eatery has a sweet new perspective on Asian fusion fare ... just make sure you don’t succumb to temptation too early
ALLY CHOW
2215 GC HWY, NOBBY BEACH
Book it: 5572 4068 or allychow.com.au
Open: Tuesday to Thursday from 12-3pm and 5pm-late; Friday to Sunday 12-late; closed Monday
SOME stories deserve to start at the end. To begin with ooey, gooey, campfire-conjuring burnt marshmallow smothered in chocolate fudge sauce, crammed in deep-fried bao so good you’ll be licking cinnamon-coated fingers.
Edgy eatery Ally Chow is taking its commitment to Asian fusion fare seriously with the latest addition to its dessert menu. Baonuts are a baodoughnut hybrid destined to give the cruffins, cronuts, chounuts and croggles of the world a run for their money.
My s’mores-inspired morsel makes up a tasty trio of miso apple caramel and banoffee toffee. Ally Chow’s baonuts are as rich as they sound, but remain on the right side of decadence thanks to reasonable portion sizes … if you’ve left the stomach space. Keep that in mind when choosing from the broader menu, which seems crafted for maximum temptation.
I visited on a quiet weeknight, avoiding facing off for a Nobby’s park in prime time and scoring attentive service and the space to linger over the polished cocktail menu and neatly curated wine, beer and spirits. Banquets take the guesswork out of the ordering process, but I cherrypicked a few favourites from the share plates. There’s pork san choy bau to spoon in crisp lettuce cups, savoury bao with crunchy fillings to set off pillowy buns, and generously stuffed short rib spring rolls.
Among the large plates, sticky pork belly, peanuts and soy caramel with crispy-coated and snappily seasoned snapper is an absolute indulgence.
The dish’s hero elements contribute so much texture and flavour it could benefit from a more sedate accompaniment than an equally intense herb and banana blossom salad.
I may not have saved the best for last in this review, but baonuts aren’t the only attraction on the dessert list.
If by this point you find yourself pleasantly replete, try the delicate vanilla-bean panacotta. In dragonfruit and plum wine broth with a pretty puff of fairy floss, it’s a gorgeous, light alternative.
While evening dining makes the most of the moodily-lit, foliage-draped interior, Ally Chow recently reopened for lunch. Pop in for bento boxes, including a vego option, and bánh mì (Vietnamese baguettes).