SEA CHANGE
This new Kirra Beach restaurant is turning the tables on American-style dining, writes Amber Macpherson
IF your idea of American food is triple-decker burgers and buckets of greasy fried chicken, slide into this new Kirra Beach restaurant and prepare to eat your words.
Saint Helens is dismantling the decadence and adding sophistication to its US-inspired menu, cooked up by Seattle-born chef and restaurant co-owner Jess Hayes.
“We wanted to bring American food to Australia in a new light,” Jess explains. “A lot of people have a certain view point that it’s heavy and fried and unhealthy.
“We want to show it can be fun and light and very approachable. We like to classify our food as upscale American bar food.”
The menu has a strong focus on share plates for all appetites, enhancing savoury snack foods with refined recipes and ingredients.
Jess says two dishes encapsulate this: the wings and sliders, and Kirra fried cauliflower (a play on KFC).
“I’ve done wings and sliders in a fresher way,” Jess says. “The wings aren’t so sloppy, they’re a lighter style.
“We have three different kinds of sliders — a classic American burger, crab cake slider and a jackfruit slider that tastes like pulled pork.
“Our best dish, and my favourite, is the Kirra fried cauliflower.
“It’s marinated cauliflower in hot sauce, served with ranch dressing. It tastes like yummy fried chicken, but it’s vegan and gluten free.
“We wanted a place where you can come with a big group of friends and everyone can find what they want.”
While Jess works behind the scenes creating enticing eats, her husband is front of house welcoming guests to tables. The pair were employed in their coincidentally complementary roles when they met, and always flirted with the idea of opening their own venue.
“My husband and I met each other in Seattle. Our first conversation actually happened to be about opening a restaurant by the beach,” Jess says. “He’s always been front of house and I’ve always been a chef. It’s like, you’ve got both the people you need (for a restaurant).
“Once we moved to Australia, we made our way up to the Gold Coast and made our space.
“The name, Saint Helens, is the volcano near Seattle that erupted around when I was born. It has a special meaning to me.”
With a curated beverage list and distinct dining options, Jess says Saint Helens aspires to be the local hangout everyone can enjoy.
“I want it to be the place where people say, ‘I just want to have a great dinner tonight, let’s go to Saint Helens’,” Jess says.
“It’s easy, you don’t have to think too much about it, if you have your kids with you or picky eaters. We wanted a place where everyone could come, any age group, and feel comfortable, have a good time and get the value we’re providing.”
Saint Helens is open Tuesday to Saturday from 4pm to late at 2/78 Musgrave St, Kirra