Anchor at Port Stephens
Wrapped in nature, you’ll want to put down roots at this luxury Hamptons haven
I’ve got unexpected company for my morning coffee.
The moment I settle on the balcony – nudging into a canopy of gums and prehistoric tree ferns – half a dozen rainbow lorikeets and a kookaburra crowd the railings.
They’re here because they’ve heard about the food. And so are we.
Home of the reputable Rick Stein restaurant, my husband and I couldn’t resist a stopover at Bannisters Port Stephens as part of our east coast roadtrip to visit family for Christmas.
But one night at the remodelled hotel only whet our appetite for an extended visit.
Caught between bush and bluewater, the high-end Hamptons haven is an ideal base to explore the Port’s pristine surrounds.
It doesn’t matter if you book base-level bush or top-tier bay views, the rooms are big, bright, fresh and full of whispered luxuries.
The red-ribbon-tied wreaths that crown every door are shaped from real foliage, robes and slippers wait in the walkthrough, and crisp linen wraps our king bed.
The skylight that floods our ensuite with natural light also illuminates the best make-up mirror I’ve found in a hotel – if you know, you know.
Possibly the pick of numerous nature-wrapped perches, an infinity pool surveys the bay through the treetops.
Swimmers have equal odds of spotting a dolphin or koala.
Diners can also appreciate the view from under the shade of a mint-striped-umbrella at
Mexican eatery Julio’s. Try the fish tacos.
Another casual option, Cheeky Dog’s relaxed bistro and beer garden is even closer to the water’s edge.
The relaxed atmosphere carries through to showpiece seafood stalwart Rick Steins, although the menu kicks it up a notch.
While dishes are at the whim of the fishing boats, look out for the local oysters and Nelson Bay yellowfin tuna.
A continental breakfast, included in our reasonable room rate, is also served at Rick Steins and goes far beyond the token toast and cereal.
The scones are my favourite part – still hot from the oven with mountains of jam and cream.
It would be easy to dream away a day within the hotel’s bounds, revolving between pool and restaurant, but there’s plenty to do further afield.
Soldiers Point Marina is a short drive or extended stroll from the hotel.
Billed as a luxury hotel for boaties, the floating hub has everything from a massage parlour to a cafe called Sea Salt, its handful of tables lapped by saltwater.
You don’t need a multimillion-dollar vessel to enjoy the sculpture walk, an outdoor gallery dotted through the docks that includes Gillie and Marc Schattner’s bronze Dogman and Rabbitwoman.
A scenic road hugging the shore takes us on to a swim at Shoal Bay, where powdery sand and calm water contrast with the dramatic backdrop of Mount Tomaree.
Sunset camel rides on Birubi Beach and sandboarding down the largest coastal dunes in the Southern Hemisphere remain fuel for a future visit.
GETTING THERE
We drove to Port Stephens – two-and-a-half hour’s north of Sydney – as part of an east coast roadtrip. Flights from the Gold Coast to Newcastle are a more direct option. It’s a halfhour drive from the airport to Bannisters Port Stephens.